Its late December and plans are being made in a timely fashion. Then this "bomb" is dropped by one of my colleagues. Hey Jim, have you guys gotten your visa yet? Visa –what visa?
As it turns out, when a US tourist goes to Europe they are granted a Schengen Zone short-term visa ( good for 90 days) on arrival. Depending on citizenship you might otherwise need to apply for one.
The Schengen Zone – if you plan to visit there more then 90 days – read it as Twilight Zone and you’ll be ready for the following ordeal.
Wikipedia says:
The Schengen Area comprises the territories of twenty-six European countries that have implemented the Schengen Agreement signed in the town of Schengen Luxembourg, in 1985. The Schengen Area operates very much like a single state for international travel with border controls for those traveling in and out of the area, but with no internal border controls.
This is why all the countries have dropped their border stations and your passport isn’t stamped moving within this zone. But when you enter and leave, immigration control will swipe your passport and note how long you’ve been in the zone.
Well, our trip is 153 days in Europe!!! Guess we need a long stay type “D” visa right!?
So I research this, and its crazy from the get go! Where do you apply? Guess what - there are rules for this! If you are equal time in multiple countries you apply to the country of first entry (Netherlands for us). But if you spend more time in one country then others then it’s the country of longest stay. (France for us)
I call the Dutch consulate and describe the trip. Yes you need a visa; no we can’t help you – talk to the French.
I go to the French consulate website –there are many in the US and as WA residents we are assigned the one in San Francisco. I wade into the French website visa section. You can only apply within 3 months of your entry date. (No problem). There are short term Schengen applications forms which we don’t seem to need, and long stay French applications for > 90 days. Hmm- which one? And the requirements are Orwellian. Bank statements to show you can afford to be there – the daily amount seems to very by country and of course there is the daily currency conversion to consider – its fluctuations are newsworthy just now. Specific sized non typical passport photos, documents showing return airfare, specific approved travelers health insurance for the period –($50K benefit minimum – must specify repatriation of mortal remains), a notarized statements that you will not work while there. Other documents at the whim of the officer! And a big one – a detailed itinerary showing all movements with confirmed hotel reservations!!! We are staying at more then 112 different places!
You must appear in person at the consulate for a personal interview /fingerprinting and submission of documents in precise order – original +copy, original+copy. There is a significant non refundable application fee.
OK – major effort here! We swing into action. Appointments are made for 3 months from departure and airfare booked to San Francisco. Paperwork is generated, health insurance researched and obtained…. And so forth.
I begin booking reservations along our itinerary but first have to find them. Long hours on the net after work. The top of Europe – booking.com to the rescue! But south of Strasbourg it becomes “interesting”. In the mountains some refuges are closed now and the email addresses sometimes are not there. You have to dig! Then google translate to inquire. 9 hours time difference so you see the results next evening and then reply one way or another. Generally 3 interactions per lodging are needed. The most you can do is about 3-4 new ones per night. Then you have to keep track of all this under time pressure.
Sigh … and other words….
I'm convinced we are missing something - insomnia sets in..
A week till the appointment – what application form do we use – its still not clear! None of the for pay visa expediters will touch this – many attempts at this! There is an E-book the purports to walk you through this for ~$50, but I’m too pissed about it all to buy it!
So I call the French S.F. consulate – navigate the French dialogue in the Visa section and leave a pleading message for a return call.
This happens! The officer (consulate personel won't give out names) with perfect English listened while I described my trip. How many days in France? 87 I reply. How many in the rest of Schengen Zone? 66 I calculate.
You don’t need a visa and we cannot legally give you one I am told! If you are in France less then 90 days and less then 90 in the S. Zone you are fine he says –because of a treaty with the US in the late 1940s. But this isn’t how the rules read I say – isn’t France part of the S.Zone! You are not listening he says! You don’t need it, have a good walk, goodbye!
Elation – at least for a while then concern – what if he is wrong or misunderstood me!????
If you run afoul of the S. Zone you in theory could find yourself in DEEP S.! "Detained" Spot fines such as $2-4k are mentioned – but also your passport can be flagged to prevent Zone reentry for 3-5 years. Which I’m sure goes off to TSA and hence forth travel will become really fun I’m speculating…
So I call the Dutch again- I explain the breakdown of days on the trip. You need a visa he says! Can you help me? No! Talk to the French! I did – they said I didn’t need one! You better talk to someone else.
Deep S. –Twilight Zone – Yeah
More calls to different agencies & travel companies all whom cannot / will not help us, suggest we talk to the French – again! US state department website essentially says - its up to the French.
So I Do!
I recall the French SF consulate. I also find a fax number for the LA consulate. This gives me the opportunity to write in detail of our trip and how our time is partitioned in Europe. I inquire whether I need an extended Schengen visa. I indicate that SF says we don’t need a visa (and won’t give us one) but I’m concerned they don’t understand my plans exactly.
Sf calls back first. A very nice articulate gentleman listened with interest – congratulated me on my plans. He said this question comes up all the time. Not all countries are aware of the 1940s treaty between France and the US pertaining to US citizens traveling to France. But we don’t need visas. We do need to carefully document our time in France. (No border stamps remember so hotel receipts I guess will have to do). We then have an additional <90 days legally in the S.Zone he explains. Simply refer to this conversation if anyone should ever ask.
LA calls back 2 hours later. An interested articulate and seemingly knowledgeable woman entertained my story and immediately said exactly what the others had said. ( 3 for 3 with the French) When I asked she initially offered to send me some email documentation of the discussion so I have at least something to show. This never happened however despite a follow-up reminder fax from me the next day.
SO - I guess we are OK till someone says we aren't.............
SO - I guess we are OK till someone says we aren't.............
In the end- the appointments are cancelled and we go to San Francisco for a nice getaway from the Zone Of Confusion.
