Heavy rain overnight and lingering when we awoke. But it thinned a bit so by the time we walked out after breakfast I could a least take off the rain pants. We walked into town and found lunch supplies at the grocery. Lieven caught up no sign of Nick so we headed out. The route crosses green fields straight at and then up the ridge above town. Switch-backing steeply up sometimes slick rock we were quickly into the fog. Along the ridge through the trees we we came to a viewpoint and magically a few cloud breaks allowed us to see the lakes, village and fields below. The route runs the ridge with border stones reminding us we were in Switzerland on this part. Finally the route turns off the ridge onto the maze of forest roads . We had lunch at a small shelter rustic but with a good stove even curtains. We can't help but reflect how these open structures would be vandalized ruthlessly in our own country. Sad.
The road / occasional trail was easy walking and undulated along without much to mention except for the variety of wild flowers. Tammy had a good time finding new ones and took many photos. We hope to get them posted someday if we could figure a way to link them to the blog- frustrating.
We reached the Rose Chalet where a sign said it was 12km to Les Rousses- no way! It was 3pm and we knew were we're closed then that!! GPS said 2 linear miles and maps similar. So on we went with a quicker pace and we began to encounter day hikers within an hour and signage indicating 2km then 1.5 then 1.7 then 2.1 -- okay we were getting closer! The descent to town was steep and muddy / slick . Aggravating on sore feet. Finally on tarmac, we walked into town where Lieven split off to find lodging. We went off not completely oriented when an older kind gentlemen approached and asked if we knew where we were.? He directed us back to town.
Where we ran back into Lieven who had a map which showed our hotel. We rested together having a cold drink when Nick materialized and we caught up on the day. There is an old fort in town hidden in the trees and Nick had photos. Interesting but not spectacular and we veered off route to our hotel about 3km. It was a nice Logis hotel and from our room we could see the mountain ridges before the lake and Geneva. We had a simple meal before turning in.
Tuesday, July 31, 2012
7/28 Mouthe to Chapelle des Bois
I envied Nick his ground for a bed after this night! Nothing worse then a crappy mattress. Down at breakfast things were simple - a baguette with a choice of spreads, coffee or tea, warm juice in previously opened bottles. My inner ability to go with the flow braked when I opened the honey to confront a dead fly. Time to leave....
The day was overcast and cooler - a relief predicted by the weatherman but at bit a of fizzle from the deluge promised - and that was fine.
We walked up to town and picked up lunch supplies - nice little tourist town in summer but apparently more so winter with much cross country skiing.
Back out of town we found ourselves down wind of a freshly manure sprayed field - the shitsen veld revisited and we suffered along at quick pace for a good twenty minutes.
The route climbed gently off the road into the woods. We'd seen considerable wood cutting in the area- really all along the GR way back north. But the wood stacking was vigorous /epic even here. We had seen cutting and stacking actively over the last few days. But coming down the road to a junction, we encountered a wood stack of jaw dropping proportions. 15 feet or more high and 75 long it dwarfed us. Mouthe has the nickname "little Siberia" for the record cold temperatures sometimes recorded there - -41C on one occasion! I suspect there is considerable wood burned in the winter. We hiked out of the woods reaching hilly pasture suggestive of glacial moraine. It was Saturday and hikers and cyclists were out desire the sprinkles. But then. These were a relief from days past. We entered Chauve Nueve as the sprinkles grew more serious and immediately heard our name called from behind - there was Nick on the hotel terrace having a coffee. We joined him and the rain fell hard. We looked at the hotel and it was clearly the better choice over the previous night and not at all a difficult walk further. After our drinks and some brioche, we all moved on. Not far out of town we walked by a huge ski jump facility of international repute. The route then stayed in green pastures or in the woods beside it which stretched as a verdant corridor essentially all the way to Chapelle des Bois. The walk was easy and very pleasant. We arrived in town at our Gite which was very walker oriented and very comfortable indeed. There was even a sauna but I didn't get too it. Right next door was a bar restaurant where Nick settled in. My gut was upset probably from breakfast but they had Guinness which is more like food really so I joined him for one and invited him to dinner. Nick sat with us along with a Belgian couple on holiday, Lieven and an American- Gregory Viscusi- a journalist for Bloomberg news stationed in Paris. He was a great person to talk with and what a neat way to catch up on the world after a few days without Internet or weeks of really caring! Another segment completed it was a good birthday as well.
The day was overcast and cooler - a relief predicted by the weatherman but at bit a of fizzle from the deluge promised - and that was fine.
We walked up to town and picked up lunch supplies - nice little tourist town in summer but apparently more so winter with much cross country skiing.
Back out of town we found ourselves down wind of a freshly manure sprayed field - the shitsen veld revisited and we suffered along at quick pace for a good twenty minutes.
The route climbed gently off the road into the woods. We'd seen considerable wood cutting in the area- really all along the GR way back north. But the wood stacking was vigorous /epic even here. We had seen cutting and stacking actively over the last few days. But coming down the road to a junction, we encountered a wood stack of jaw dropping proportions. 15 feet or more high and 75 long it dwarfed us. Mouthe has the nickname "little Siberia" for the record cold temperatures sometimes recorded there - -41C on one occasion! I suspect there is considerable wood burned in the winter. We hiked out of the woods reaching hilly pasture suggestive of glacial moraine. It was Saturday and hikers and cyclists were out desire the sprinkles. But then. These were a relief from days past. We entered Chauve Nueve as the sprinkles grew more serious and immediately heard our name called from behind - there was Nick on the hotel terrace having a coffee. We joined him and the rain fell hard. We looked at the hotel and it was clearly the better choice over the previous night and not at all a difficult walk further. After our drinks and some brioche, we all moved on. Not far out of town we walked by a huge ski jump facility of international repute. The route then stayed in green pastures or in the woods beside it which stretched as a verdant corridor essentially all the way to Chapelle des Bois. The walk was easy and very pleasant. We arrived in town at our Gite which was very walker oriented and very comfortable indeed. There was even a sauna but I didn't get too it. Right next door was a bar restaurant where Nick settled in. My gut was upset probably from breakfast but they had Guinness which is more like food really so I joined him for one and invited him to dinner. Nick sat with us along with a Belgian couple on holiday, Lieven and an American- Gregory Viscusi- a journalist for Bloomberg news stationed in Paris. He was a great person to talk with and what a neat way to catch up on the world after a few days without Internet or weeks of really caring! Another segment completed it was a good birthday as well.
Sunday, July 29, 2012
7/27 Gros Morond to Mouthe
Slept well an awoke to the ongoing cow bell background. Beautiful skies awaited. The water at the refuge is via rainwater cistern and the previous night, I had boiled our supply for the day. Packed up quickly, we were eating some breakfast outside in the warm sun when the guardian arrived. Very pleasant and fun to talk with, her car was parked outside the cattle barrier. As we enjoyed a chat we heard banging- the cattle surrounded her car and their bells were smacking into it!! She ran down to shoo them away - no apparent damage done. The cows can be very inquisitive!
Our new Belgian aquaintance, Lieven, was only 3 days into his walk and feeling the altitude. So we took off regaining the ridge above the refuge. It was a great place to experience!
On the ridge we climbed steadily to the Mont d'Or. The tallest part of the ridge. Wonderful hazy scenery to the east and to the south the hazy outline of the Mount Blanc massif could be seem. Exciting! Approaching the summit a saw a figure running and no surprise - Nick awaited us on top! We caught up while enjoying the scenery, which now included parasail enthusiasts riding the thermals at cliff edge. Lieven caught up and we all stood around chatting to the extent that I became distracted and as we ambled off the ridge taking photos, I left my trekking poles at the top - so back I went to fetch them. It's steep down the hill but not excessively so first on road then on trail. A popular area quite a few day hikers were out and as the day heated up we found many groups resting in shade. We were feeling it too so when we spotted an apparent terrace with umbrellas we headed over to a rather upscale country auberge restaurant where Nick and Lieven were having a drink. As it was only 11:30 no one seemed interested in food while those around us were eating pizza and the smell was working on me. Looking across the field at the trail I saw 2 hikers and said "it's them - the Dutch couple!" . Nick hailed them over and they were of course confused at who could be calling them. We had only met them once briefly on June 4 - nearly 2 months ago - the only other through hikers we knew of and we had often wondered where they were and how they were doing. So it felt like a reunion of old friends and we spent the rest of the day walking together with Nick as well - interesting to hear a Dutch conversation. We ate lunch under some trees before moving on and with really an easy down hill day reached Mouthe early in the day. We stayed at a Gite near the source of the Doubs. Many tourists here seeking cool in the frigid water coming from the ground. The water was actually painful to stand in but Nick jumped straight in over his head and shot back out like a rocket! It would have killed me! The lodging was "fair" - a common room with multiple bunk beds - a sink room with showers and two hallway toilets. The mattresses were as old as me perhaps. Two French guys were staying here and eventually Lieven booked in as well. The French were aggressively touring the GTJ trail of the Jura - one road a mountain bike while the other ran after one hour they switch! They were doing 40-50km a day this way. One of them had biked 40,000 km around the world - he had the seriousness of a driven athlete - I admired these guys for their accomplishment. Nick stuck around for dinner and the food was hearty and plentiful with vegetables , sausage meats cooked into a nice large dishes. The cheese board afterward was good too. Sleep in the dorm however. - not so good...
Our new Belgian aquaintance, Lieven, was only 3 days into his walk and feeling the altitude. So we took off regaining the ridge above the refuge. It was a great place to experience!
On the ridge we climbed steadily to the Mont d'Or. The tallest part of the ridge. Wonderful hazy scenery to the east and to the south the hazy outline of the Mount Blanc massif could be seem. Exciting! Approaching the summit a saw a figure running and no surprise - Nick awaited us on top! We caught up while enjoying the scenery, which now included parasail enthusiasts riding the thermals at cliff edge. Lieven caught up and we all stood around chatting to the extent that I became distracted and as we ambled off the ridge taking photos, I left my trekking poles at the top - so back I went to fetch them. It's steep down the hill but not excessively so first on road then on trail. A popular area quite a few day hikers were out and as the day heated up we found many groups resting in shade. We were feeling it too so when we spotted an apparent terrace with umbrellas we headed over to a rather upscale country auberge restaurant where Nick and Lieven were having a drink. As it was only 11:30 no one seemed interested in food while those around us were eating pizza and the smell was working on me. Looking across the field at the trail I saw 2 hikers and said "it's them - the Dutch couple!" . Nick hailed them over and they were of course confused at who could be calling them. We had only met them once briefly on June 4 - nearly 2 months ago - the only other through hikers we knew of and we had often wondered where they were and how they were doing. So it felt like a reunion of old friends and we spent the rest of the day walking together with Nick as well - interesting to hear a Dutch conversation. We ate lunch under some trees before moving on and with really an easy down hill day reached Mouthe early in the day. We stayed at a Gite near the source of the Doubs. Many tourists here seeking cool in the frigid water coming from the ground. The water was actually painful to stand in but Nick jumped straight in over his head and shot back out like a rocket! It would have killed me! The lodging was "fair" - a common room with multiple bunk beds - a sink room with showers and two hallway toilets. The mattresses were as old as me perhaps. Two French guys were staying here and eventually Lieven booked in as well. The French were aggressively touring the GTJ trail of the Jura - one road a mountain bike while the other ran after one hour they switch! They were doing 40-50km a day this way. One of them had biked 40,000 km around the world - he had the seriousness of a driven athlete - I admired these guys for their accomplishment. Nick stuck around for dinner and the food was hearty and plentiful with vegetables , sausage meats cooked into a nice large dishes. The cheese board afterward was good too. Sleep in the dorm however. - not so good...
Saturday, July 28, 2012
7/26 Cluse et Mijoux to Refuge Gros Morond
We woke up late in our Pontralier hotel after a wonderful sleep - 8:30! But we hustled and were packed and ready for breakfast by 9. Nick appeared and after a chat we went for errands as Nick had his own. We ordered a cab which arrived - the same driver as before! Amazingly I had left my sunglasses somewhere yesterday and he had them in the car! Good luck!
We started walking where we had left off the day prior and it felt just as hot already. The GR5 follows a route southeast of town which in years past was the variant - while the prior GR was part of the GRJ.
We climbed steeply into the woods my legs heavy but not really sore or stiff despite the huge push the day before .
Limbering up and drinking water I felt stronger - we emerged by a small community with a ice cold fountain where I immersed my head and arms. Cooled and the air cooler out of the valley, we climbed into the woods where we felt energized and kept a strong pace uphill without much sense of exertion. We reached an overlook with a pick-nick table where we rested, snacked and left Nick a note. Eventually we made a descent onto the shallow plateau holding open fields and the winter ski town of La Fourg. The center street was under construction and the broad gravel boulevard with tall buildings on either side felt like a wild west town in the afternoon heat. We located a restaurant and had lunch outside - the plat du jour was chicken in a compte cheese sauce with a bit of quiche. Tammy had a massive burger. About 2 pm we walked on climbing to the chapel overlooking the town then up the road to where we took a wrong turn to the right mis-guided by the old gps route while the real GR swung right. Luckily it didn't matter as they came back together entering and crossing a series of farmers fields before hitting a road which we then descended. I hate route anxiety. Almost into Hopital Vieux the route vexingly left the road and swung around and above the town in brushy humid woods - if I had to do it again I would have just kept on the road. We descended into busy Hopital Neufs - a tourist town at the base of Gros Morond a ski mountain where our CAF refuge was located. So we stopped for refreshment - ice cream for Tam and a banana chocolte crepe for me. The sky which was ever dark through the afternoon rumbled then let loose - a massive deluge, the air chilled in a flash. We waited an hour till it let up then headed out at 18:20. Rested we climbed steeply then very steeply finally entering an area where it hasn't rained at all! The cliffs cleared and the sun created beautiful evening light cast across the green rial landscape just below but also large up thrust hills of the Jura formation in the distance. At the petite Morond chalet we stopped to watch the cows come down. One was eating a long length of rope but it ran off when Tam tried to intervene. Reaching the top by 20:00 in fine light and views all around I had to dig out the map to locate the refuge. About 0.8 km further on and down to the right the Club Alpin France refuge was a great place to spend the night - hot showers! We had a big dorm to ourselves while a Belgian walker and a couple caring for troubled boys had 3 of them there as well . They had some left over spaghetti which my stomach welcomed. We were serenaded by the cow bells of the herd which surrounded the refuge for the night.
We started walking where we had left off the day prior and it felt just as hot already. The GR5 follows a route southeast of town which in years past was the variant - while the prior GR was part of the GRJ.
We climbed steeply into the woods my legs heavy but not really sore or stiff despite the huge push the day before .
Limbering up and drinking water I felt stronger - we emerged by a small community with a ice cold fountain where I immersed my head and arms. Cooled and the air cooler out of the valley, we climbed into the woods where we felt energized and kept a strong pace uphill without much sense of exertion. We reached an overlook with a pick-nick table where we rested, snacked and left Nick a note. Eventually we made a descent onto the shallow plateau holding open fields and the winter ski town of La Fourg. The center street was under construction and the broad gravel boulevard with tall buildings on either side felt like a wild west town in the afternoon heat. We located a restaurant and had lunch outside - the plat du jour was chicken in a compte cheese sauce with a bit of quiche. Tammy had a massive burger. About 2 pm we walked on climbing to the chapel overlooking the town then up the road to where we took a wrong turn to the right mis-guided by the old gps route while the real GR swung right. Luckily it didn't matter as they came back together entering and crossing a series of farmers fields before hitting a road which we then descended. I hate route anxiety. Almost into Hopital Vieux the route vexingly left the road and swung around and above the town in brushy humid woods - if I had to do it again I would have just kept on the road. We descended into busy Hopital Neufs - a tourist town at the base of Gros Morond a ski mountain where our CAF refuge was located. So we stopped for refreshment - ice cream for Tam and a banana chocolte crepe for me. The sky which was ever dark through the afternoon rumbled then let loose - a massive deluge, the air chilled in a flash. We waited an hour till it let up then headed out at 18:20. Rested we climbed steeply then very steeply finally entering an area where it hasn't rained at all! The cliffs cleared and the sun created beautiful evening light cast across the green rial landscape just below but also large up thrust hills of the Jura formation in the distance. At the petite Morond chalet we stopped to watch the cows come down. One was eating a long length of rope but it ran off when Tam tried to intervene. Reaching the top by 20:00 in fine light and views all around I had to dig out the map to locate the refuge. About 0.8 km further on and down to the right the Club Alpin France refuge was a great place to spend the night - hot showers! We had a big dorm to ourselves while a Belgian walker and a couple caring for troubled boys had 3 of them there as well . They had some left over spaghetti which my stomach welcomed. We were serenaded by the cow bells of the herd which surrounded the refuge for the night.
7/24 Villers du Lac to Vieux Chateleu
Our room was situated above a busy street which kept me from a restful sleep. The air was already warm as we ventured out - Nick was outside ready to go but we made another quick stop at the grocery before hitting the road. I bought a straw hat to replace the one I lost- cowboy style at that! The GR starts climbing into the sun heading east up roads mostly before some really steep segments up the hill crest. The occasional views below to town continually improve. We reached an auberge du Rocher where Nick rounded up some cool drinks as we sat in the shade. Tammy had fun with a playful kitten. When we left it followed us quite a ways until Nick dropped his pack and jogged back to the auberge with the kitten then ran like mad back to leave it behind and to catch up. A funny scene! Gaining altitude moderated the temperatures and in the shade of the woods it was perfect for our efforts. We passed along Swiss border stones as we gained the crest. Near a telecommunications tower we past an enthusiastic young walker out for a few days heading north. He seemed excited for our walk and we gave him a blog card. Further on the woods opened onto a rural plateau and we past some magnificent farmhouses in an idyllic setting. Here we crawled under an electric fence to sit in the shade of a tree as cows moved closer in curiosity, their bells clanging. Refreshed we moved onward using road and trail undulating along. We stopped at a spot to hike downhill a ways to the Grand Cave . Ditching our packs made this easy - the cave was interesting but the views down the valley more so. Nick scraped his foot retrieving the packs which gave him some trouble. But just a bit further on we walked by a beautiful farmhouse with people about and stopped for a chat. A beautiful chapel built by the mans great grandfather was well decorated. Nick had some foot care offered and while we stood there a young family of 4 walked by - 2 small children with ambitious parents. It flashed me back to times with my girls. We finally got going again and passed the family on hot road. Eventually we reached the Auberge Vieux Chateleu our stop for the night. There was a great bar / dining area with old photos and memorabilia. Apparently a man from this farm crossed the border to warn the allies of V1 production in WW2. We sat on the pick --nick tables in a warm breeze before going in sipping cool drinks. Inside the room was amazingly upscale even with a kitchenette. Laundry hung out in the hot air , I joined Nick awhile before he moved on further down the road. Our dinner was massive - steak in a mushroom sauce while I had duck with mountain morels. We shared a good salad and ended up uncomfortably stuffed. So I slept sub optimally a second night!
7/25 Vieux Chateleu to Cluse et Mijoux
This was a day difficult due to its length 30 km may be more route dependent. There were variant route options to give potential bailout pathways but then distance would tack onto the next day which had its own issues already. On top of the distance was heat which was predicted to build thru the week.
We got up from our gluttonous sleep early ate and were booting out by 8:10. The sun was hot out the door and we dressed the occasion. We moved out quickly down hill then off into a field climbing a bit then descending on slick dewy trail ....then back to the road -- just stay on the road for this part! We road walked briskly but stopping now and then for pictures of cattle - their bells clanging. Cattle - our constant companions on the trip. We passed through the village of Grand Mont situated pastorally but surrounded by coniferous forests and the up thrust ridges of the Jura. Walking out of town we approached such a ridge entering forest where we came upon and passed the family of walkers we'd seen the day before - their kids sucking down water already. Hope they did ok. Reaching the ridge the route turns and parallels the face climbing its shoulder steeply before emerging into open pastures crossing a rock wall into Swiss. Nice walking in these big pastures although hot, and we climbed again into trees overlooking the cattle in the pasture below that we'd left behind. Basically we reached the ridge top and a farm where we then walked road perhaps a km before starting a long descent through trees into a canyon where a stream cooled the air.along here we looked down to see a note pinned to the ground from Nick saying he had taken a side variant to Montbenoit to see the abbey. Amazingly on the back of the paper was another message to us from a couple we'd met months ago in Begium - Sebastian and Suzzane who were also through hiking the route but camping. They hoped to meet up! Many questions presented - did they meet Nick and learn of us? How far ahead were they? I realized in retrospect I'd seen them from a distance back in Villers but didn't make the connection.
So on we went re-entering the heat at Les Allies where I figured we'd find food or at least water. But no eateries here! I asked a man in his yard to fill up water but he said the town water was found contaminated last week and only bottle water worked. He gave me a 1.25 liter bottle and would accept nothing for it! Just out of town we parked in the shade of a tree on damp ground with breeze - I sat on my rainwear. The moisture added to the cooling and we rehydrated and ate a light lunch - boots off - could have napped.
Stepping a few feet away onto the road was like a blast furnace. We later heard the valley temperatures in the sun on the road reached 42C ! Pacing along the road we past 2 farms climbing toward a ridge where the trail split and a variant presented which was 5km shorter. A no brainer in these conditions we began a descent parallel to the ridge passing closely among cattle then a group of horses stationary seeking refuge from the heat In the trees. Finally the trail is a road following a water course - bone dry- which cuts through the ridge. The air here was cool nevertheless and we walked strongly up it till hitting a junction of road and trail - the main GR. Roadwalking upward in full sun the air smelled of melted tar as we moved quickly between shady spots which always seemed breezy and remarkably cool compared to sun a few feet away. Finally back into the woods it was great to walk off pavement but the air was still here and warm for very steep climbing toward the crest of the Larimont ridge. Here another variant presents which I wish we could have taken as it runs the crest to a high fortress and long views. As it was, this had become a "bit" of an ordeal. Exiting forest into pasture we rested in the breezy shade near cows then pushed on an gently up finally reaching a farm where the ridge descends. We started down in green lawn park like conditions. Day walkers here and several spurs lead to Pontralier our evening destination. But we descended the ridge as planned resting in cool shade yet again. Finally we walked by lower Fort Larimont / Mahler. Moving below it the castle Joux came into view on the opposite hill - back lit it didn't photograph well. The final rocky rough road switchback descent was painful with each step and we finished our water as we reached the bottom in the town Cluse et Mijoux .
Directly in front of us was a Absynthe distillery with the door invitingly open. So right off the trail we stepped into the cool building. Nice WC here too. A young man with excellent English offered a brief tour. So we had this great personal tour of the distillery with the original copper vats more then a century old and pre dating the 70 year ban on Absynthe. The process was explained along with the history of the drink. Then we were taken to a back room which had a fascinating display of their product and old posters. We were offered a sip of several liquors which we carefully tried given our patched state. The feet felt better immediately and they graciously called a taxi which took us to our hotel . The driver spoke no English but we enjoyed practicing our French and he was all for it - between Tam and I + the Absynthe it was a fun conversation! The hotel St Pierre was wonderful and we cleaned up and in the warm evening air had burgers at a street cafe. Toward the end of the meal a plump moustached semi intoxicated fellow sat next to us and began attempting to converse with us in general and hit on Tammy more in particular. A crazy end to an overwhelming day . We both slept deep and long.
We got up from our gluttonous sleep early ate and were booting out by 8:10. The sun was hot out the door and we dressed the occasion. We moved out quickly down hill then off into a field climbing a bit then descending on slick dewy trail ....then back to the road -- just stay on the road for this part! We road walked briskly but stopping now and then for pictures of cattle - their bells clanging. Cattle - our constant companions on the trip. We passed through the village of Grand Mont situated pastorally but surrounded by coniferous forests and the up thrust ridges of the Jura. Walking out of town we approached such a ridge entering forest where we came upon and passed the family of walkers we'd seen the day before - their kids sucking down water already. Hope they did ok. Reaching the ridge the route turns and parallels the face climbing its shoulder steeply before emerging into open pastures crossing a rock wall into Swiss. Nice walking in these big pastures although hot, and we climbed again into trees overlooking the cattle in the pasture below that we'd left behind. Basically we reached the ridge top and a farm where we then walked road perhaps a km before starting a long descent through trees into a canyon where a stream cooled the air.along here we looked down to see a note pinned to the ground from Nick saying he had taken a side variant to Montbenoit to see the abbey. Amazingly on the back of the paper was another message to us from a couple we'd met months ago in Begium - Sebastian and Suzzane who were also through hiking the route but camping. They hoped to meet up! Many questions presented - did they meet Nick and learn of us? How far ahead were they? I realized in retrospect I'd seen them from a distance back in Villers but didn't make the connection.
So on we went re-entering the heat at Les Allies where I figured we'd find food or at least water. But no eateries here! I asked a man in his yard to fill up water but he said the town water was found contaminated last week and only bottle water worked. He gave me a 1.25 liter bottle and would accept nothing for it! Just out of town we parked in the shade of a tree on damp ground with breeze - I sat on my rainwear. The moisture added to the cooling and we rehydrated and ate a light lunch - boots off - could have napped.
Stepping a few feet away onto the road was like a blast furnace. We later heard the valley temperatures in the sun on the road reached 42C ! Pacing along the road we past 2 farms climbing toward a ridge where the trail split and a variant presented which was 5km shorter. A no brainer in these conditions we began a descent parallel to the ridge passing closely among cattle then a group of horses stationary seeking refuge from the heat In the trees. Finally the trail is a road following a water course - bone dry- which cuts through the ridge. The air here was cool nevertheless and we walked strongly up it till hitting a junction of road and trail - the main GR. Roadwalking upward in full sun the air smelled of melted tar as we moved quickly between shady spots which always seemed breezy and remarkably cool compared to sun a few feet away. Finally back into the woods it was great to walk off pavement but the air was still here and warm for very steep climbing toward the crest of the Larimont ridge. Here another variant presents which I wish we could have taken as it runs the crest to a high fortress and long views. As it was, this had become a "bit" of an ordeal. Exiting forest into pasture we rested in the breezy shade near cows then pushed on an gently up finally reaching a farm where the ridge descends. We started down in green lawn park like conditions. Day walkers here and several spurs lead to Pontralier our evening destination. But we descended the ridge as planned resting in cool shade yet again. Finally we walked by lower Fort Larimont / Mahler. Moving below it the castle Joux came into view on the opposite hill - back lit it didn't photograph well. The final rocky rough road switchback descent was painful with each step and we finished our water as we reached the bottom in the town Cluse et Mijoux .
Directly in front of us was a Absynthe distillery with the door invitingly open. So right off the trail we stepped into the cool building. Nice WC here too. A young man with excellent English offered a brief tour. So we had this great personal tour of the distillery with the original copper vats more then a century old and pre dating the 70 year ban on Absynthe. The process was explained along with the history of the drink. Then we were taken to a back room which had a fascinating display of their product and old posters. We were offered a sip of several liquors which we carefully tried given our patched state. The feet felt better immediately and they graciously called a taxi which took us to our hotel . The driver spoke no English but we enjoyed practicing our French and he was all for it - between Tam and I + the Absynthe it was a fun conversation! The hotel St Pierre was wonderful and we cleaned up and in the warm evening air had burgers at a street cafe. Toward the end of the meal a plump moustached semi intoxicated fellow sat next to us and began attempting to converse with us in general and hit on Tammy more in particular. A crazy end to an overwhelming day . We both slept deep and long.
Tuesday, July 24, 2012
7/23 la Rasse to Villees du Lac
A cool morning start in the canyon along the river with good walking out the door. In the shade of the trees I pushed back my hat to enjoy the air-it was gone!! - somewhere along here I lost it!
We past several shelters and signs of fishing.A large power plant is passed on the Swiss side with a huge cog railway almost vertically rises and shot up the hill as we watched.Past this the GR officially goes uphill however from my research I new this used to be a GR variant and the old GR stuck to the river. This we did and the old GR markers remain to be seen after passing earlier ones defaced. For two hours we walked in this narrow canyon with vertical white walls, rushing waters, on semi overgrown little used trail - essentially a highlight of the 2 days. If the upstream dam dumped water in some spots you'd be in trouble with no high ground to flee too. But you climb sharply from the canyon at last and work your way finally to the dam site. Past the dam I expected to reach the boats to Villers Le Lac quickly. But in fact it is an hour further along the lake. So we walked 30 minutes through the wind swaying pine forest and afternoon warmth before resting on rocks for chocolate snacks. Onwards the trial skirts along the lake on blasted out rock face with a railing. Tammy saw a large fish jump and this lake is known for monster trout. Two anglers were there trying their skills to get one. A steep climb comes to a viewpoint overlooking a waterfall the Sault de Doubs - probably the largest one I've seen so far in Europe. The long lake behind this cascade is natural result of blockage at the waterfall - not the previous man made dam. Fresh day tourists were thick here and the route is on sidewalk along restaurant /snack bars and trinket souveneer stands. And there was Nick in one sipping coffee! We had an ice cream while we visited then hustled further down to the wharf for the boats. Tickets are bought in the last shop just at the dock and the girl there laughed openly at my clumsy French. Always glad to amuse! The ride to Villers amongst the tourists was pretty and restful - wished it was longer. In town we immediately found a pizzeria for later and a grocery for supplies. I found a topoguide at the little "Presse" stand and cash machines were abundant. The hotel was very nice but our room faced the street and the traffic noise early the next morning broke my sleep. Tammy took a nap while I ran errands and shared a beer with Nick who arrived on foot - a easy road walk he said. We went to the pizzeria later which had excellent pizza and we ordered enough to save for lunch the next day.
We past several shelters and signs of fishing.A large power plant is passed on the Swiss side with a huge cog railway almost vertically rises and shot up the hill as we watched.Past this the GR officially goes uphill however from my research I new this used to be a GR variant and the old GR stuck to the river. This we did and the old GR markers remain to be seen after passing earlier ones defaced. For two hours we walked in this narrow canyon with vertical white walls, rushing waters, on semi overgrown little used trail - essentially a highlight of the 2 days. If the upstream dam dumped water in some spots you'd be in trouble with no high ground to flee too. But you climb sharply from the canyon at last and work your way finally to the dam site. Past the dam I expected to reach the boats to Villers Le Lac quickly. But in fact it is an hour further along the lake. So we walked 30 minutes through the wind swaying pine forest and afternoon warmth before resting on rocks for chocolate snacks. Onwards the trial skirts along the lake on blasted out rock face with a railing. Tammy saw a large fish jump and this lake is known for monster trout. Two anglers were there trying their skills to get one. A steep climb comes to a viewpoint overlooking a waterfall the Sault de Doubs - probably the largest one I've seen so far in Europe. The long lake behind this cascade is natural result of blockage at the waterfall - not the previous man made dam. Fresh day tourists were thick here and the route is on sidewalk along restaurant /snack bars and trinket souveneer stands. And there was Nick in one sipping coffee! We had an ice cream while we visited then hustled further down to the wharf for the boats. Tickets are bought in the last shop just at the dock and the girl there laughed openly at my clumsy French. Always glad to amuse! The ride to Villers amongst the tourists was pretty and restful - wished it was longer. In town we immediately found a pizzeria for later and a grocery for supplies. I found a topoguide at the little "Presse" stand and cash machines were abundant. The hotel was very nice but our room faced the street and the traffic noise early the next morning broke my sleep. Tammy took a nap while I ran errands and shared a beer with Nick who arrived on foot - a easy road walk he said. We went to the pizzeria later which had excellent pizza and we ordered enough to save for lunch the next day.
7/22 -Goumois to La Rasse
The weather was predicted good and it held true. We awoke to sunbreaks and clearing a sky Perfect walking weather. Nick was waiting for us on the bridge and off we went along the river Doubs. This day and the next were markedly and wonderful different from days previous. We walked in the canyon sometimes climbing over a cliffy spots then back down. Kayaking is big here but fishing is huge. But to walk beside the river was wonderful. A mixture of trees - some pines but otherwise elms, beech and hazelnut. Mosses dressed the trees occasionally drowning them. A walker in Olympic National Park in the US would find this very familiar . In fact I experienced some nostalgia while walking these two days. After three hours we stopped for lunch in a green bank of the river occupied by 2 donkeys. Past the electric fence they were amazingly docile. And after nosing around they moved off. Nick had promised to cook us lunch and this he proceeded to do with his stove and supplies he'd obtained the day before. Warm noodles with sausage and tomatoes complimented by a fresh salad made a nice shoreline pick nick.
We moved in climbing more up the canyon wall till finally breaking out of the trees at an overlook crowded with tourists. This was the eschalier du morts ( ladders of death ) - here steep but not vertical solid metal stairs descended in several flights to the valley bottom and river. There is also a via ferrata here for climbing types to work along the cliff edge. Fun to watch! Nick hung back to rest as we moved onward. We had a couple more hours of walking and we spent a good while along the now intensly moss covered landscape along the churning river. A dam is reached and the water backs up into a lake- along the edge abruptly there is a real vertical ladder - 15 ft or so initiating a climb away from the water and then a slow descent back to it. At a road crossing to Swiss. the lake and trail hook a U turn and there is easy trail 30 min to La Rasse. It's a big old farm type house beside rushing noisy water and a high red bridge to Swiss. The young woman who greeted us seemed a little put out by our French incompetence but a older woman appeared who spoke some English and we were fine. We invited Nick to join us for dinner. The proprietor came in a few time first with homemade wine ( so so ) and latter a glad with a homade yellow liqueur which I would better describe as paint thinner. Whew wee ! Discovering Nick was Dutch, he offered him some weed which Nick declined with furrowed brow. He seemed a bit sloshed and told us how he loved the river and fishing. He offered that he liked making babies over watching TV. ( alrighty then...! ) what a character! Anyway the meal was homemade and delicious and we slept wonderfully to the sound of the river.
We moved in climbing more up the canyon wall till finally breaking out of the trees at an overlook crowded with tourists. This was the eschalier du morts ( ladders of death ) - here steep but not vertical solid metal stairs descended in several flights to the valley bottom and river. There is also a via ferrata here for climbing types to work along the cliff edge. Fun to watch! Nick hung back to rest as we moved onward. We had a couple more hours of walking and we spent a good while along the now intensly moss covered landscape along the churning river. A dam is reached and the water backs up into a lake- along the edge abruptly there is a real vertical ladder - 15 ft or so initiating a climb away from the water and then a slow descent back to it. At a road crossing to Swiss. the lake and trail hook a U turn and there is easy trail 30 min to La Rasse. It's a big old farm type house beside rushing noisy water and a high red bridge to Swiss. The young woman who greeted us seemed a little put out by our French incompetence but a older woman appeared who spoke some English and we were fine. We invited Nick to join us for dinner. The proprietor came in a few time first with homemade wine ( so so ) and latter a glad with a homade yellow liqueur which I would better describe as paint thinner. Whew wee ! Discovering Nick was Dutch, he offered him some weed which Nick declined with furrowed brow. He seemed a bit sloshed and told us how he loved the river and fishing. He offered that he liked making babies over watching TV. ( alrighty then...! ) what a character! Anyway the meal was homemade and delicious and we slept wonderfully to the sound of the river.
7/21 Goumois rest day!
The title says it all! Exhausted we slept in peacefully and missed breakfast. Finally up, the day was cool and a bit gray but with the promise of sun-breaks. So we walked out to find food- stopping briefly at the church before descending into town. But we noticed some darker clouds and decided to go pick up an umbrella from the hotel. Right back out there was Nick walking down the road. So we all went to town and in true rural French form no food was available just drinks. But a nearby grocery provided sustenance as well as provisions for the next day which we brought into the restaurant and then bought drinks. They didn't care.
Afterward we returned to the hotel and read / blogged and napped all afternoon. Finally we we out for dinner back down to the town - with raincoats as the sky promised a storm. We met Nick and walked over the bridge to Switzerland Goumois and had Fondue on the terrace as the rain bucketed down. It passed by the time we finished and we slogged back up the hill for a good night sleep.
Afterward we returned to the hotel and read / blogged and napped all afternoon. Finally we we out for dinner back down to the town - with raincoats as the sky promised a storm. We met Nick and walked over the bridge to Switzerland Goumois and had Fondue on the terrace as the rain bucketed down. It passed by the time we finished and we slogged back up the hill for a good night sleep.
Saturday, July 21, 2012
7/20 St. Hip. To Goumois
I woke up tired and stiff especially the calves after the steep hills of the previous day. The stiffness yielded to stretching and with breakfast adjourned we walked back through town where we met Nick having a coffee by the restaurant. He had camped in town by the river and had gone for a swim in the morning. We gave him some blister supplies and he used a needle to pass a thread through one to keep it drained. We took photos of the town and finally headed out after a stop at the grocery. There we met the 4 Belgians we'd seen 2 days before. They were doing the GR in stages a week each year.
Up out of town the GR climbs a bit then traverses along the hillside - there are muddy patches which Nick slopped through. Seeing some clear water to clean off he strode into it and sunk to his knees in mud much to Tammy's glee. The water cleared a ways past letting Nick clean up. There was an interesting spot where the water ran over a prominence above and rained down the hillside densely carpeted in moss. There is a massive overgrown abandoned farmhouse where we paused and noticed the overgrown GR sign indicating a right turn downhill- easy to miss as there was well used trail straight on. The decent goes to the valley floor passing little cabins and a stream until finally crossing the river. Here young people in Kayaks were playing in the gentle current. No food here so up we went steep at first then very steep still on road - it would be frightening to drive this when wet. Tired at the top, lunch was called for but first there was a farm to pass with yapping dogs. Onto grassy farm lane then we still angled upward till a stop was called on the grassy road with great views of the valley. Nick sat right in the road while Tammy sat on the edge. I sat beside her - right onto an ant hill! So after a readjustment in position and a brush off we finally enjoyed a lunch of sausage, bread, cheese, fruit and chocolate. A young boy from the farm came and stopped seeming to look at his bike. But clearly he wanted to talk and with little prompting he was quick and detailed in answering our questions in a beautiful youthful voice - delightfully unforgettable. Jean-Charles indicated some days many walkers come by - one group of 17- some days none. He had a sister 22years older and went to school in St Hip. I gave him some chocolate which he seemed to enjoy.
Fueled if not refreshed we continued upwards crossing the ridge the descending into the next town of Courtefontaine. Past the old church at the bottom of the hill in town center is a huge covered public fountain / washing facility of historical significance. Sadly it's drained but the size was the largest we'd seen. The modern watering hole is next door- a bar where we sat down for coffee and beer as the 4 Belgians got up to leave.
We left ourselves at 14:20 and by map the day was only half done. The sky began to thicken as was forecast and sprinkles began as we worked our way sometimes very steeply up road and trail. Finally the rain was full on and I missing my umbrella - donned my clammy raincoat. We reached Fessevillers and found cover in the entryway of the town church. Nick wanted to rest while Tam and I opted to push on - up! In steady rain we walked through undulating landscape pausing at a church at a place called Urtiere. This old place was built on a cemetery for bubonic plague victims. There was an interesting spiral crucifix outside of some antiquity as well. Earlier in the day and in dry conditions I would have lingered and explored this place a bit. But frankly we were trashed by the exertion and rain. It was 18:00 and we had a long descent ahead. And it was long - quite steep but thankfully the rock mid trail wasn't slippery and there were only a couple muddy ruts to work around. We were passed a one point by a drenched woman on horseback. Still it was 19:00 when we arrived at the hotel in Goumois. In the door and approaching the desk a woman was on the phone - she had a call for us- Nick! He called to let us know he was staying at the last town in the Gite! Not having to wait for him we rapidly cleaned up and transformed into exhausted tourists and went to dinner. The hotel has food of the artistic type with small elegantly crafted portions. The was a lobster bisque for starters. The bread soft, warm and plentiful. Tammy had duck accompanied by a mousse made from forest mushrooms. I had John - Dory fish prepared as a small lasagne with creme d absinthe. Well...... :)
Local cheeses followed and sorbet finished the meal. I don't remember laying down I was so tired.
Up out of town the GR climbs a bit then traverses along the hillside - there are muddy patches which Nick slopped through. Seeing some clear water to clean off he strode into it and sunk to his knees in mud much to Tammy's glee. The water cleared a ways past letting Nick clean up. There was an interesting spot where the water ran over a prominence above and rained down the hillside densely carpeted in moss. There is a massive overgrown abandoned farmhouse where we paused and noticed the overgrown GR sign indicating a right turn downhill- easy to miss as there was well used trail straight on. The decent goes to the valley floor passing little cabins and a stream until finally crossing the river. Here young people in Kayaks were playing in the gentle current. No food here so up we went steep at first then very steep still on road - it would be frightening to drive this when wet. Tired at the top, lunch was called for but first there was a farm to pass with yapping dogs. Onto grassy farm lane then we still angled upward till a stop was called on the grassy road with great views of the valley. Nick sat right in the road while Tammy sat on the edge. I sat beside her - right onto an ant hill! So after a readjustment in position and a brush off we finally enjoyed a lunch of sausage, bread, cheese, fruit and chocolate. A young boy from the farm came and stopped seeming to look at his bike. But clearly he wanted to talk and with little prompting he was quick and detailed in answering our questions in a beautiful youthful voice - delightfully unforgettable. Jean-Charles indicated some days many walkers come by - one group of 17- some days none. He had a sister 22years older and went to school in St Hip. I gave him some chocolate which he seemed to enjoy.
Fueled if not refreshed we continued upwards crossing the ridge the descending into the next town of Courtefontaine. Past the old church at the bottom of the hill in town center is a huge covered public fountain / washing facility of historical significance. Sadly it's drained but the size was the largest we'd seen. The modern watering hole is next door- a bar where we sat down for coffee and beer as the 4 Belgians got up to leave.
We left ourselves at 14:20 and by map the day was only half done. The sky began to thicken as was forecast and sprinkles began as we worked our way sometimes very steeply up road and trail. Finally the rain was full on and I missing my umbrella - donned my clammy raincoat. We reached Fessevillers and found cover in the entryway of the town church. Nick wanted to rest while Tam and I opted to push on - up! In steady rain we walked through undulating landscape pausing at a church at a place called Urtiere. This old place was built on a cemetery for bubonic plague victims. There was an interesting spiral crucifix outside of some antiquity as well. Earlier in the day and in dry conditions I would have lingered and explored this place a bit. But frankly we were trashed by the exertion and rain. It was 18:00 and we had a long descent ahead. And it was long - quite steep but thankfully the rock mid trail wasn't slippery and there were only a couple muddy ruts to work around. We were passed a one point by a drenched woman on horseback. Still it was 19:00 when we arrived at the hotel in Goumois. In the door and approaching the desk a woman was on the phone - she had a call for us- Nick! He called to let us know he was staying at the last town in the Gite! Not having to wait for him we rapidly cleaned up and transformed into exhausted tourists and went to dinner. The hotel has food of the artistic type with small elegantly crafted portions. The was a lobster bisque for starters. The bread soft, warm and plentiful. Tammy had duck accompanied by a mousse made from forest mushrooms. I had John - Dory fish prepared as a small lasagne with creme d absinthe. Well...... :)
Local cheeses followed and sorbet finished the meal. I don't remember laying down I was so tired.
7/19 Abbevillers to Saint- Hippolyte.
Up the next morning we taxied again (€€!) to Abbevillers and with our full load headed south on the GR - less then a mile and there was Nick again sitting in the grass. ("You guys are late") So we walked together out of town down into the woods with the occasional clanging of cowbells. The day was overcast but the temperature perfect for walking. We passed along a pretty quiet stream and at one point a massive forest ant mound built around and taller then a fence post- the ants flooding the trail- no lingering here! Then a long steep climb took us up to the Swiss border which we then traveled for a couple hours passing old and new border-stone markers. Easy walking along here but sometimes into open fields where the GR signs were less obvious. A picnic table in the woods was an obvious spot to break for lunch. Moving away from the border we descended into a small village which - sadly - lacked a bar/ restaurant for a warm drink. Nick decided to stop and rest awhile as we pushed on. Out of town there is a steep ridge to climb with wind generators an the far end. The climb out was steep trail - to road - back to trail. There is a site of an old castle with a moat carved into the rock. You cross a wooden semi- moss covered bridge which will someday need replacing - I wouldn't want to be the one to bring it down..... The rock here is notably different with limestone cliffs and prominences and the stone white and smooth sometimes a blue-green hue - slick when wet. We paused at such a prominence for a rest and snack - Tammy gave a few crumbs to the ants. We then began a long descent through farmland and woods to the next town of Chamsol which again had nothing open. The markers weren't so good here- at the bottom of a long hill you turn right and go uphill to a road junction and stay left out of town. Descending again you enter a field and between fence and trees begin a very long descent eventually onto an old roadbed. By this time of day we were really tired. At a break by a church overlooking the town of St. Hip. we sat on benches and finally gave in to a nap for half an hour. Not completely refreshed but feet much better we walked into the charming picturesque village of Saint Hippolyte. At our nice hotel we cleaned up then after a couple hours went back into town where we met Nick for dinner. This town seems to be a be a cross roads and traffic sounds bothered my sleep.
Thursday, July 19, 2012
7/13 Grand Ballon to Thann
We awoke to conditions like the day before- cold blowing rain. As a result we never did get to the top of the Ballon but just headed down to the valley town of Thann and a rest day. The route descended meadows used as ski runs and after an hour the air warmed, wind diminished and rain eventually let up. Then it was nice trail walking through forest. We went by a castle ruin at Freundstein but the rocky scramble into it was rain slick and not worth the risk. So we moved onwards - sure was easy going down! Noticeably thicker, the vegetation was lush in the forest not unlike the northwest. We reached a pass and the site of a large national memorial Hartmannswillerkopf. This was the site of famous 1915 trench battles over these ridges leaving 30,000 French dead. The memorial is under renovation and we couldn't visit it. We paused here for our ham and cheese refueling ritual. A car pulled up and some Americans came by from Portland,OR- small world. Then Nick magically appeared and after he showed us a back way to view the cemetery, we spend the rest of the afternoon walking to town. Nick was a wealth of botanical knowledge and we stopped to discuss and sometimes photograph the plentiful variety at our feet. We came through a paddock where 20 or so horned cattle and calves completely blocked the route. Nick was a good person to have along as we followed him and we slowly approached and walked amongst them - close as to be touchable. Not something that I would have done on my own. They just lay there watching us. Nick mentioned they are well treated and aren't usually alarmed by people amongst them. Good to know for future reference. We stopped a ways on at a farm auberge for warm drinks and a blueberry tart. We left and finally arrived above the town at the Engelbourg castle ruin which was destroyed by Louis the 14th. When the circular tower came down a ring section remained intact and is called the sorcer's eye. A scenic overlook of Thann and it's beautiful cathedral. We gave Nick our remaining sandwich and parted company as he planned to move back up to the hills and pitch camp. We found our hotel and after cleaning up ate in the fancy restaurant when a cloudburst developed outside. The food was a bit too fancy for us and formal for that matter. We tried the local famous wine - Rangen- which I found a too sweet for my liking but worth the try. We had a pile of filthy clothes and went to bed anticipating errands and rest the in the morning.
7/18 Belfort to Abbevillers
So today's plan was to take the 9:02 train 20 minutes from Belfort to Montbeliard then walk about 8 km to our hotel in Etupes. From there take a taxi to the town of Abbeviller and walk the GR5 back north to the hotel. Then the next day take the taxi back to Abbeviller and continue south. The point was to break up the distance and avoid a 20+ mile day.
We went to the Belfort station early -8:30 - to catch the 9:02 to Montbeliard. But the lady indicated a trail at 8:34 do we hustled to the platform got aboard the train and it departed. Early into Montbeliard we decided to walk around the old town and perhaps see the castle. So we randomly walked a winding route enjoying the quiet old town just beginning to wake up. Sunny and already warm it was pleasant strolling. Finally we decided to loop back, left or right it didn't matter, so we went left over a bridge. We stopped to look back at a fountain in the river and Tammy noticed a backpack under the trees. It was Nick!! - our Dutch walker from days before - what are the chances! So we sat and caught up for an hour, offered foot care supplies, then walked around town together finally touring the castle. The castle hosts an interesting historical collection as we as natural history displays of the area and a bit of local art. The lords of this castle ruled the large area up to Belfort but there were Romans here before them. I always find the antiquity of these places wonderful and intriguing. After the castle we caught a bite at a street cafe- croque Monsieur sandwich for me and pasta for Tam.
We had walking to do and Nick had a city agenda so we parted company. We walked back across the river to catch the bike path opposite the river from the massive auto factory here. Finally onto the street Google map guided us to the town of Etupes and our lodging at Vielle Ferme. ( old farm). The day was hot now and it felt good after so many chill days. We noticed a swimming pool and held this thought the rest of the afternoon. We immediately ordered a taxi and off we went to Abbeviller. The cab had to come from Montbeliard and already the 15 € on the meter when it arrived. The total fare was 38€ ! Not cheap but better then a 20+ mile day. ( of course we had to do it again the next day!) so late in the warm afternoon we headed north along the GR back to the hotel. We carried only light day bags and with Abbeyville on high ground we were downhill most of the time. Easy walking! At first we passed farmers bailing hay the old way into blocks with a man riding along stacking them. Then down into woods eventually coming to a rock arch with a Saracen legend. We emerged into the hilly town of Vandoncourt - there was a nice little grocery on the route with fresh fruits, bread and all the staples. In previous years walkers mention a lodging in this town but apparently not anymore- at least none I could find. The happy grocery woman there seemed very used to walkers. We enjoyed cold drinks, fruit and almond croissants. We moved on downhill to the town of Dashle where we passed a group 4 walkers heading south. Up into the woods then down we linked to a road which led us off the GR and back to the hotel. On arrival we immediately eased ourselves into the pool - what a relief!
We went to the Belfort station early -8:30 - to catch the 9:02 to Montbeliard. But the lady indicated a trail at 8:34 do we hustled to the platform got aboard the train and it departed. Early into Montbeliard we decided to walk around the old town and perhaps see the castle. So we randomly walked a winding route enjoying the quiet old town just beginning to wake up. Sunny and already warm it was pleasant strolling. Finally we decided to loop back, left or right it didn't matter, so we went left over a bridge. We stopped to look back at a fountain in the river and Tammy noticed a backpack under the trees. It was Nick!! - our Dutch walker from days before - what are the chances! So we sat and caught up for an hour, offered foot care supplies, then walked around town together finally touring the castle. The castle hosts an interesting historical collection as we as natural history displays of the area and a bit of local art. The lords of this castle ruled the large area up to Belfort but there were Romans here before them. I always find the antiquity of these places wonderful and intriguing. After the castle we caught a bite at a street cafe- croque Monsieur sandwich for me and pasta for Tam.
We had walking to do and Nick had a city agenda so we parted company. We walked back across the river to catch the bike path opposite the river from the massive auto factory here. Finally onto the street Google map guided us to the town of Etupes and our lodging at Vielle Ferme. ( old farm). The day was hot now and it felt good after so many chill days. We noticed a swimming pool and held this thought the rest of the afternoon. We immediately ordered a taxi and off we went to Abbeviller. The cab had to come from Montbeliard and already the 15 € on the meter when it arrived. The total fare was 38€ ! Not cheap but better then a 20+ mile day. ( of course we had to do it again the next day!) so late in the warm afternoon we headed north along the GR back to the hotel. We carried only light day bags and with Abbeyville on high ground we were downhill most of the time. Easy walking! At first we passed farmers bailing hay the old way into blocks with a man riding along stacking them. Then down into woods eventually coming to a rock arch with a Saracen legend. We emerged into the hilly town of Vandoncourt - there was a nice little grocery on the route with fresh fruits, bread and all the staples. In previous years walkers mention a lodging in this town but apparently not anymore- at least none I could find. The happy grocery woman there seemed very used to walkers. We enjoyed cold drinks, fruit and almond croissants. We moved on downhill to the town of Dashle where we passed a group 4 walkers heading south. Up into the woods then down we linked to a road which led us off the GR and back to the hotel. On arrival we immediately eased ourselves into the pool - what a relief!
7/16 Rouge Gazon to Giromagny / Belort
Today's segment ends in Giromagny but in planning the next couple of days, accommodation was difficult to locate and I wanted to visit Belfort. So I planned in advance to walk to Giromagny then bus to Belfort directly at days end. And so it went. The morning was crisp 6C with a blue sunny sky. We followed the blue/white/blue rectangle behind the building up and over the ridge and easy down to the GR in open meadows. Then the route continues to roll along the ridge up and down along the crest sometimes breaking out to views down to lakes in the valley. The ups and downs were sometimes steep and long and it took us 3 hours to reach Ballon D'Alsace. We found a bench near the top out of the wind where we enjoyed our lunch with sunshine, big views as far back as Grand Ballon and satisfaction of almost finishing the Vosges mountains. We viewed the placards and distance markers before walking off the top heading south. Several restaurants were on the south west side of the mountain but we continued on through open meadows along the ridge but down ward overall.after crossing a road we passed winter ski huts but trended upwards over a prominence with a Madona above the GR. I went up for a great look back to the Ballon. While Tammy rested in the meadow below. We rejoined and continued onward past the wreckage of a farm. Just past a sign indicates the GR5 becomes once again a white over red slash and continues on down to the right. The red rectangle route still exists and this route continues up to the left. We later found out our Dutch acquaintance Nick missed this and walked 2 hours onwards in bad weather before discovering his mistake and backtracking. Steep and long down through the forest our feet took a pounding. We reached a sign indicating a Gite to the right in 5 minutes with Giromagny 35 minutes ahead. Five minutes later at the Col St jean the sign said 1hr 30 minutes to Giro..! What!?! We pushed on and the 30 minutes is more accurate. Heading to catch the bus at the Marie we came upon a bus stop for #30 Optymo line to Belfort. And instantly there was the bus, so we got on. But these buses don't take cash!!!? You need a pass card or you can buy a pass by texting with your phone. The driver let us board and we frantically tried with our mobile phone unsuccessfully to buy tickets all the way to Belfort where we finally departed distressed and frustrated by not being able to pay the fare and with our phone in general. We walked to our hotel the Kyriad which was perfect. After we cleaned up we went out for Indian food at Punjab. Our waiter was beyond articulate - quick witted and funny, he made our evening fun and memorable for more then just the good meal that it was.
7/17 Belfort
Partly cloudy warm and breezy was the days weather. After an average breakfast at the hotel we walked up town for errands and then to play tourist. I wanted to find the local tourist office - always your best shot to become organized, get maps, lodging info etc. Usually it's in the city center so we headed there but it was nowhere to to be found. Some traffic signs alluded to it but the city seems to enjoy one way streets and that wasn't helpful. Using my pseudo French I managed to figure out there was a bank near it and a general direction. But we spotted a posted city map and finally pinned it down. It is up on a busy street,about a km north of town center, adjacent to the bank of Spain. Inside I found the map perfect for the Jura - IGN 137 Green at 1:100,000 seems to cover the upcoming week and a half of the Jura. With a local tour map as well we had one more destination - the Post to send home a stack of maps. The tourist map showed it - sort of. And so another frustrating half hour of walking and area peering up and down streets for the distinctive Post logo. Probably this is the most aggravating part of this kind of day to day travel - entering a town - then being unable to find a place or due to holiday / Sunday or midday finding everything closed. We found the Post in a building recessed from the street so you can't see the sign just looking down the street. Mission accomplished we headed for the old city and citadel. The old city was just that- very interesting picturesque buildings and monuments set beneath the fortress of massive walls while the citadel looms above. The maroon Vosiegn sandstone, so familiar now, is the building material for the cathedral and Citadel. Belfort was Austrian till it was signed over to France in the treaty of Westphalia in the 1600s. The famous fort builder Vaubain then improved this massive fortress. In the 1870-1 war it held against Prussian assault and had to be ordered to surrender by the French government in the settlement. As a result it remained French as did not go to Germany as the Alsace / Lorraine did. The Lion of Belfort was carved of the matron sandstone to commemorate the successful defense of Belfort and it sits impressively beneath the Citadel. The sculptor Bertholdi gave the US the Statue of Liberty. The fortress was massive and the views sweeping from the top. We had a nice salad lunch in the Citadel restaurant. We spent time in the museum which informational displays on the fortress history. The upper floor is military and weapons and uniforms of French and German soldiers of the different periods if well organized and displayed. Some things were amazing such as a rampart rife at least 10 feet long. In a display of the fireman outfits there were old shiny breathing helmets which are identical to C3P0's head in the Stars Wars movie!
We finished with a visit to the Lion which was impressive but more so at a distance. Back at the hotel I discovered a shopping complex a few blocks away with a huge grocery and miscellaneous shopping store. Supplies bought I went to a great Buffett restaurant - Crescent- with a wonderful well priced selection and volume of food. Movie complex across the street. Wish I had known this entering town!
We finished with a visit to the Lion which was impressive but more so at a distance. Back at the hotel I discovered a shopping complex a few blocks away with a huge grocery and miscellaneous shopping store. Supplies bought I went to a great Buffett restaurant - Crescent- with a wonderful well priced selection and volume of food. Movie complex across the street. Wish I had known this entering town!
Tuesday, July 17, 2012
7/15 Thann to Lac de Perches / Rouge Gazon
Publishing without pictures till we've figured it out.…
The weather forecast was poor and indeed we awoke to light showers. By by the time we'd finished breakfast, they'd stopped and there were tentative sun breaks. And that's good - hate walking out the door into rain. The route headed uphill a block from the hotel and gets right down to business generating altitude. Street quickly yields to typical forest road which climbs at a comfortable grade. Sprinkles came and went but finally the deluge came on. I was wearing my long pants and didn't put on the rain pants - a real mistake I will not repeat going forward. We transitioned from managed woods on road to Beech forest on trail. I love these beautiful lichen encrusted trees - the leaf litter was soft underfoot and quiets the forest. The leaves are huge compared to their South American cousins. The fall color I imagine to be superb. After reaching a pass and crossing the road the route turns steeper. The air chilled and the rain was full on. We broke out of the trees in high meadow, the cattle hiding from the wind amongst the trees. I saw a building ahead with a pick-nick table outside suggesting a farm auberge - we went straight to it - I was very cold. It was a ski shelter of the club Vosigenne and it was crowded with walkers sitting and eating at long tables. We hesitantly poked our head in the warm room. A friendly woman who appeared in charge approached and I asked about hot drinks. She took us downstairs where we could hang our wet gear. We took a seat amongst the others and there was an awkward silence initially. But in my semi coherent French explained who we were, what we were doing. Everyone wanted to talk to us then! Wine was brought out and well as local cheese. At thimble of a local liqueur made from milk warmed things up! They even applauded our accomplishment. I loved it !! It was that feeling of convivial acceptance in another land for which I will always remember. I passed out some blog cards as well. Warmed up, fed and happy - we left 2 hours later in much better weather. We crossed the meadows then descended steeply - a pattern that repeats as you work along the ridge crests one side or another. It was a good 3 hours to the col by the Lac de Perches which we descended steeply too. From here the route climbs sharply to the right ,well marked to the Logis Lodge of Rouge Gazon. It's steep for 30 minutes and then right out of the trees you arrive. A ski resort in the winter, this place was busy - we enjoyed a wonderful meal of roast pig and vegetables with Beaujolais wine. Meanwhile the wind howled and rain bucketed as elderly couples merrily danced to live a accordion with an accompanist. A very full day by any measure!
The weather forecast was poor and indeed we awoke to light showers. By by the time we'd finished breakfast, they'd stopped and there were tentative sun breaks. And that's good - hate walking out the door into rain. The route headed uphill a block from the hotel and gets right down to business generating altitude. Street quickly yields to typical forest road which climbs at a comfortable grade. Sprinkles came and went but finally the deluge came on. I was wearing my long pants and didn't put on the rain pants - a real mistake I will not repeat going forward. We transitioned from managed woods on road to Beech forest on trail. I love these beautiful lichen encrusted trees - the leaf litter was soft underfoot and quiets the forest. The leaves are huge compared to their South American cousins. The fall color I imagine to be superb. After reaching a pass and crossing the road the route turns steeper. The air chilled and the rain was full on. We broke out of the trees in high meadow, the cattle hiding from the wind amongst the trees. I saw a building ahead with a pick-nick table outside suggesting a farm auberge - we went straight to it - I was very cold. It was a ski shelter of the club Vosigenne and it was crowded with walkers sitting and eating at long tables. We hesitantly poked our head in the warm room. A friendly woman who appeared in charge approached and I asked about hot drinks. She took us downstairs where we could hang our wet gear. We took a seat amongst the others and there was an awkward silence initially. But in my semi coherent French explained who we were, what we were doing. Everyone wanted to talk to us then! Wine was brought out and well as local cheese. At thimble of a local liqueur made from milk warmed things up! They even applauded our accomplishment. I loved it !! It was that feeling of convivial acceptance in another land for which I will always remember. I passed out some blog cards as well. Warmed up, fed and happy - we left 2 hours later in much better weather. We crossed the meadows then descended steeply - a pattern that repeats as you work along the ridge crests one side or another. It was a good 3 hours to the col by the Lac de Perches which we descended steeply too. From here the route climbs sharply to the right ,well marked to the Logis Lodge of Rouge Gazon. It's steep for 30 minutes and then right out of the trees you arrive. A ski resort in the winter, this place was busy - we enjoyed a wonderful meal of roast pig and vegetables with Beaujolais wine. Meanwhile the wind howled and rain bucketed as elderly couples merrily danced to live a accordion with an accompanist. A very full day by any measure!
Sunday, July 15, 2012
7/14. Thann rest day?
We slept in as heavy wind and rain bucketed down - finally appearing at 9 for a great breakfast buffet with pancakes and sausages. The Pan Au Chocolate was one of the best ever! Organized, we marched off to the laundry with a backpack full of rank clothes. We found it and ready to go but there was no soap machine. The tourist office was 2 blocks away so I went there for advice - where to buy soap? It was Saturday when stores are open - but no! This was 7/14 a national holiday everything is closed. She suggested we try the phone number in the laundromat - - recorded message! Is there any store open? yes in Cernay there is a large store 7 km away. How about a taxi? She calls and none are running. I remember 2 bikes at the hotel- we go back - can we rent them? Sure! Problem solved-- but then the tires are flat ! And no pump! We needed other supplies so we finally just walked there - easy and fine without a pack - until the sidewalk ran out with 2 miles to go. This was dangerously stupid and never forgotten - imagine walking along a freeway with no shoulder... Somehwere along here I managed to drop the umbrella I'd been carrying. We had to carefully maneuver along the overgrown road shoulder till reaching the Hypermarche. And it was great with cheese, produce, bread etc. and soap! There was a Buffett style restaurant with the salad I had craved for some time. I noticed a spigot that dispensed red wine the way ours would water in a similar setting. Peach ice tea for me! A fantastic brownie!
We then walked a mile and a half to the Cernay train station and took this back to Thann - limited holiday schedule. ( But why didn't we just take it there in the first place?) We used the hotel spa - whirlpool, sauna and fancy hydraulic massage machine. We got the laundry done finally. We went to dinner at a Lebanese place with great ambiance- decor, music and savory food- meat brouchettes ! A good day in the end -(ok it could have been much better) but not especially restful .
We then walked a mile and a half to the Cernay train station and took this back to Thann - limited holiday schedule. ( But why didn't we just take it there in the first place?) We used the hotel spa - whirlpool, sauna and fancy hydraulic massage machine. We got the laundry done finally. We went to dinner at a Lebanese place with great ambiance- decor, music and savory food- meat brouchettes ! A good day in the end -(ok it could have been much better) but not especially restful .
Saturday, July 14, 2012
7/15 note!
I'm getting a message that I've reached some kind of photo limit at the blog so I have to figure this out before I post more!
7/11 Col du Calvaire to Le Hohneck
It rained overnight sporadically and the semi overcast sky was full of wind moving the clouds close by at this elevation. We set out with MASSIVE sandwiches on rye for a change & tomato too! Back up the hill the GR descends then climbs back to the rim above the Lac Blanc cirque. Finally saw briefly saw the lake before walk across the Gazon Faing - a natural preserve of windswept treeless grassy / boggy ground - very windy with the eating clouds had us in rainwear but it never really did more then spit. The route just follows the ridge dipping into the forest at low points then climbing out again. Beautiful open scenery and fine walking. The forests are of an interesting tree- beech?-, stunted seemingly with no understory except dead brown leaves. I found the moss and lichen covered bark to be beautiful and I really enjoyed these forests. Somewhere past Lac Verte in the wind shadow of a chair lift structure we paused and devoured lunch as well as a day old baguette which with some honey was serviceable. Finally we reached the Col de la Schlecht where there was a restaurant open and a souvenir stand with chocolate bars and a map I needed. Tammy had a latte while I had a Leffe beer - good but the wrong thing when you are about to climb. Which we then did and eventually the green mountain of Le Hohneck appeared. The sun had come out but the wind intensified. A hiker warned us to hold onto our hats and took our picture -I gave him a blog card. We kept going up past the CAF refuge another couple told us about - another blog card out to them! Reaching the base of the final ascent after some intoxicating scenery and photography delays we turned left with the GR. Mistake! The GR branches here, this turn runs below the summit and our hotel. A little further on it turns up and over the summit rejoining the first branching turn at the pass below. So we did a tiring backtrack up wind to finally climb to our destination. While Tammy cleaned up I went out and checked the sights. Here I spotted a walker and introducing myself met Nick, a Dutch walker out for 4 weeks on the GR. he was camping. We figured we would meet later as in fact we did. The restaurant hotel was warm and tight with great views. The workers couldn't or chose not to understand us well but everything turned out with a hearty dinner as well. The wind intensified. I had cracked a window for some air which whistles a little but with earplugs all seemed well . In the middle of the night though the thing blew open right next to the bed. I hazily/barely remember waking up enough push it shut and instantly back to sleep. Tammy remembers the Germans hollering in English to close the window and pounding loudly followed by "thank you" after I shut it. I remember nothing of this. Tammy slept poorly with the wind and the Germans looked like they didn't sleep at all the next morning.
7/12. Le Hohneck to Grand Ballon
In the morning the wind continued strong as ever, quite cold perhaps 9-10C - and of course the rain started in the cloud surrounding us. Low visibility made for extreme conditions. We layered up with our warmest clothes + raingear. I safety pinned a sock into my hat for warmth and wore socks on my hands. And this worked fine. We spent 4-5 hours in horizontal rainfall in a cross wind thankfully with intermittent trees which gave relief. We followed the GR5 variant across the exposed crest of the Vosges finally linking up with the main route coming up from Mittlach. On a clear day our route would have been sensational. As it was we were bone tired when we reached Grand Ballon after 7 hours in tough conditions. But through the fog we could see massive meadows full of wheat we reached the ski village of Le Markstein where we stopped for a coffee / hot chocolate and a blueberry tart ( tarte myrtilles) . As we pushed on the weather brightened and the forest walking was beautiful to the col du Haag. Reaching here the GR climbs the peak then drops over the back to the hotel. There is a branching route off to the left which goes to the hotel directly. We tried this and mistakenly went a quarter mile down a gravel road before realizing the error and backtracking. We got on the RWR rectangle marked route and in about half a mile stumbled into the hotel. It's rustic with obvious history like a national park lodge in the US. The public areas were fine but the room cold and with the radiators off for the summer...I guess? Warm comforters though but not great for drying wet clothes. Our dinner started with a plate of mountain meats as an appetizer. One of which was liver sausage which I had not tasted since my grandmother made sandwiches of it when I was 10. Funny how taste provokes some recollections. We enjoyed a fine bottle of Alsacian Auxerois wine- my favorite white wine. After dinner I spotted Nick in the lobby - he ordered food and we talked until dark when he left to pitch camp outside! Exhausted I slept well beneath the comforters in the cold damp room .
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