8/2 Geneva to Bernex

This was the day we began the final stage of our journey - crossing the Alps. We felt rather fit after walking for 2 and a half months, and we'd refined our pack weights to what we knew to be comfortable. Still the the towering shadows across the lake were intimidating as much as awesome. I had experienced guided hiking in the alps 3 times in the last 12 years and realized those experiences were tame in comparison to what lay ahead.
The GR5 reaches the lake at Nyon on the Swiss side and the continuation is by ferry across to France where there are two formal approaches. St Gingolf is described as a very steep difficult climb from the lake without much in the way of views. The other approach from Thonon- les-Bains is longer and and looks to take two days what the other approach does in one. We chose a third option which was described by David May in his detailed website which is to arrive at Evian and walk to the village of Bernex where lodging is plentiful and then climb to intersect the GR which crosses above it coming from Thonon.
So we packed up and took the later train to Lausanne where the boat runs frequently to Evian. The Swiss train was direct and was amazingly smooth. We decided to look around Lausanne and I'm glad we did. It's from lake level way up on a hill where the old city and cathedral are located. The rail station arrives in between. The walk up winds through cobblestone streets of the old city which is upscale shopping and cafes . The cathedral was interesting and scenic with views over the city rooftops. We wound back down to the station. There is a metro train which runs directly to the waterfront boats, but we elected to walk after figuring out that we had to walk beneath the rail station. There were no obvious signs for this but a street side elevator west end of the station building dropped us to a tunnel which led to the street. Using a street map from the station city info center we worked out the route paralleling the metro train. The metro honestly would have been easier but the walk did afford views of elegant old residential buildings. Finally at the waterfront the area was busy with tourists with lake boat connections to many places such as Montreux . We bought tickets and caught a boat within 5 minutes. The day was quite warm and the crossing in hazy sunshine made the ridges of the alps appear as shadowed lines down to the lake edge. We disembarked at Evian and immediately had lunch along with a liter of water. I had preloaded a route from the harbor to the hotel which worked fine! Evian sits at 376 meters while our hotel was at 993 meters elevation. The distance was a bit over 7 km. Looking more closely though- the route took us through Saint Paul en Chablais 4 km from Evian it was already at 876 meters. The temperature was 32C. For the US reader this averages to 660 ft per mile up in hot still air. In this shaded heat we staggered up until Saint Paul-en - Chablais where we found a running city fountain. There I emerged my head in the frigid water. The view of the lake and cities below and the mountains ahead was spectacular indeed. Our final 3km to the quality hotel was much less steep but along a very busy windy road without shoulder much. It felt a bit dangerous though less steep and a bit of breeze lessened the heat. Coming rocketing down amidst the cars was a bicyclist riding hands free preoccupied with texting.......
We reached the hotel Bois Joli which I mentioned was quality but honestly the key feature was the swimming pool the we rapidly were in. I just sat in the shallows for a hour then migrated to a chair and fell asleep briefly. dinner was excellent but simple - lamb chops with peas. We had some wine which increasingly is a mistake as it disturbs my sleep.

7/31-8/1 Geneva Switzerland

I had planned a couple days in Geneva as id been there before and enjoyed it. We had city type errands to run as well - Tammy needed a new raincoat while wanted a new hat. Our box from home sent many thanks by my friend Tom was at the hotel with our fleece jackets and our mountain boots among other things. With the box that came to us, we planned to return it with our shoes unneeded clothes etc. We asked about a mountain shop and received directions to a department store which didn't have what we needed. We walked to the main shopping shopping street to came to a world sport shop where we found a quality rain shell. They told us about a mountain shop called Cactus- tram line 12 Armess exit. We went and I can highly recommend it - the staff quite helpful and some sale items well priced. But Geneva is no bargain and the shop is no less pricey. Still - a good find for us- everything done we had a small salad lunch with cold drinks and more sticker shock. We headed back in considerable heat for the rest part of our rest day. An evening stroll at the waterfront featured perfect evening light with Mt Blanc clearly seen. We went to an Indian restaurant near the hotel for a fine meal. The next day we planned to ship the box back and tour the town. Problems right away! Turns out Aug 1 is a national holiday and everything is closed- post office, CERN , the UN - all the stuff we wanted! Over breakfast I concocted a plan - take to team to France - Annemasse where it wasn't a holiday and post office is open. It worked and we trammed to the border - crossed past the border security with the large sealed box without so much as a glance - then bussed to the post office - 20 minutes later back on the bus and then the tram ,- line 12. Back in town the heat was building so we stopped at Starbucks - I guess we were a little homesick- it was comforting. Then to the train station where I wanted train tickets for the next day. Heading back I saw an open city info trailer. I asked again about CERN - I was indeed open today! despite what the hotel desk clerk had said. So we had a quick Thai lunch then jumped on the tram and made it to CERN by 15:20 - hardly enough time before 17:00 closing to do it justice- but still it was memorable and awe inspiring! We returned to town for a rest and ended up staying in and eating some munchies we'd packed. A big thunder storm early followed by heavy rain late. I regret not seeing the fireworks over the lake which we heard from our room.

7/30 Les Rousses to Nyon / Geneva

Our lodging was about 3 km southeast of where the GR leaves town and descends southwest around the fort to reach after ~5-6 km La Cure. Our hotel was only 1.8 km from the same place and I found it too much to stomach to walk the extra distance. So we set off down a peaceful country road surrounded by green fields and cattle in crisp morning air and beautiful morning light. Quickly into La Cure, the GR marking changes from white over red to Swiss yellow diamonds and sign posts all the way to Nyon. You find the route at the La Cure train station and follow the signs along highway to street then to path for a short while along the train tracks. A hiker was about 5 min ahead and we paced him. We cut through forest emerging at a farm building where a sign indicated a left turn. We finally figured out we had to cross the cattle wire and descend the pasture beside it - because the hiker ahead did the same thing. He disappeared over a low hill. When we crossed it he had vanished but there sat Nick in the middle of the trail finishing breakfast. So we walked together through fields along a seemingly endless old stone wall finally into wood then back to pastures with different cattle - milky white to brown. The huge thistles we'd seen growing over the last week were finally opening amidst the cows who gazed at us as we played with our cameras. Continually descending now we began to pass cute Swiss chalets with their perfect yards. We stopped in St Cergue for coffee / iced tea then headed on passing a restaurant terrace with our first view if Lac Leman (Geneva) still far below. But not for long - the road steeply switchbacks down from here while the GR cut the switches plunging downhill on old river rock road bed -rough on the feet. It was along here where our first view of Mt Blanc, ice white in the distance, popped out. My emotions soared - as I had a flash of reflection of our accomplishment. We had walked hundreds of miles over 2.5 months crossing difficult terrain in tough weather to reach this place. And having been to the area 3 times previously there was an elated sensation of arriving at the familiar - not home of course- but a place rich rich with memories of my daughters and friends. A place in the mind that home perhaps also abides. I was back!
And with this reflection we emerged from the woods and road walked to Nyon on the Lake. Looking back I spotted Lieven and so we all four walked together. The slopes tapered here and agriculture gripped the land, terraces of grapes and apples. As the land leveled we passed sunflower fields in different states of maturity their heads lifted to the hot sky while in adjacent fields the sight of mature corn husks triggered smells memories of summer barbecue. We entered the Nyon periphery which was newer, modern mixed with the old till the main part of town - passing through the gare under the tracks , the city was busy with shoppers. The sudden transition from walking GR and seeing no one to suddenly entering a large crowded area where humanity seems to huddle is a bit unnerving and is always an adjustment that feels awkward even uncomfortable. We didn't pause but pushed through town to a huge white 4 turret chateau that overlooks and dominates the harbor front buildings below. We spotted an elevator from here that seemed to go down so we took it ending up in the bottom of a parking garage which also happened to be at harbor level. We joked about painting GR markers to the elevator and through the garage. We walked with the mix of good smelling tourists to the wharf where we had about an hours wait. We had our first Swiss sticker shock here - 3.50 for a scoop of ice cream! We saw one of the old lake steam paddle boats come and go with we've alps in the background and far town lake the huge fountain o'd Geneva was visible. A beautiful afternoon by the water. Nick actually jumped in the lake to cool off. Lieven however  couldn't cross the lake till the next day where he would continue on the GR - so he took leave of us to find lodging after we exchanged goodbyes - uncertain if we'd meet again.
The boat we rode to Geneva was newer and faster. Crowded too. We were on our feet most of the time in the pleasantly cool boat created breeze. After a short stop at Hermance we reached the interesting and beautiful harbor of Geneva in gorgeous late afternoon light- the towering fountain, festival tourists crowding the waterfront along with traffic made for sensory overload after the countryside of the last many weeks. We parted with Nick here after almost a month of traveling together more or less. He was heading home to Holland / work and other adventures. He plans cross the alps another year. We settled in to our hotel not far from the waterfront - Edelweiss. A tourist hotel it was very nice and comfortable with amenities. The restaurant however was a bit of a tourist trap with yodeling , accordion music etc where the Asian tourists came up to give a puff on the horn. We had a beef fondue with fries- and just water for 85$ - that's after the 15% off coupon! Better luck tomorrow!