Our lodging was about 3 km southeast of where the GR leaves town and descends southwest around the fort to reach after ~5-6 km La Cure. Our hotel was only 1.8 km from the same place and I found it too much to stomach to walk the extra distance. So we set off down a peaceful country road surrounded by green fields and cattle in crisp morning air and beautiful morning light. Quickly into La Cure, the GR marking changes from white over red to Swiss yellow diamonds and sign posts all the way to Nyon. You find the route at the La Cure train station and follow the signs along highway to street then to path for a short while along the train tracks. A hiker was about 5 min ahead and we paced him. We cut through forest emerging at a farm building where a sign indicated a left turn. We finally figured out we had to cross the cattle wire and descend the pasture beside it - because the hiker ahead did the same thing. He disappeared over a low hill. When we crossed it he had vanished but there sat Nick in the middle of the trail finishing breakfast. So we walked together through fields along a seemingly endless old stone wall finally into wood then back to pastures with different cattle - milky white to brown. The huge thistles we'd seen growing over the last week were finally opening amidst the cows who gazed at us as we played with our cameras. Continually descending now we began to pass cute Swiss chalets with their perfect yards. We stopped in St Cergue for coffee / iced tea then headed on passing a restaurant terrace with our first view if Lac Leman (Geneva) still far below. But not for long - the road steeply switchbacks down from here while the GR cut the switches plunging downhill on old river rock road bed -rough on the feet. It was along here where our first view of Mt Blanc, ice white in the distance, popped out. My emotions soared - as I had a flash of reflection of our accomplishment. We had walked hundreds of miles over 2.5 months crossing difficult terrain in tough weather to reach this place. And having been to the area 3 times previously there was an elated sensation of arriving at the familiar - not home of course- but a place rich rich with memories of my daughters and friends. A place in the mind that home perhaps also abides. I was back!
And with this reflection we emerged from the woods and road walked to Nyon on the Lake. Looking back I spotted Lieven and so we all four walked together. The slopes tapered here and agriculture gripped the land, terraces of grapes and apples. As the land leveled we passed sunflower fields in different states of maturity their heads lifted to the hot sky while in adjacent fields the sight of mature corn husks triggered smells memories of summer barbecue. We entered the Nyon periphery which was newer, modern mixed with the old till the main part of town - passing through the gare under the tracks , the city was busy with shoppers. The sudden transition from walking GR and seeing no one to suddenly entering a large crowded area where humanity seems to huddle is a bit unnerving and is always an adjustment that feels awkward even uncomfortable. We didn't pause but pushed through town to a huge white 4 turret chateau that overlooks and dominates the harbor front buildings below. We spotted an elevator from here that seemed to go down so we took it ending up in the bottom of a parking garage which also happened to be at harbor level. We joked about painting GR markers to the elevator and through the garage. We walked with the mix of good smelling tourists to the wharf where we had about an hours wait. We had our first Swiss sticker shock here - 3.50 for a scoop of ice cream! We saw one of the old lake steam paddle boats come and go with we've alps in the background and far town lake the huge fountain o'd Geneva was visible. A beautiful afternoon by the water. Nick actually jumped in the lake to cool off. Lieven however couldn't cross the lake till the next day where he would continue on the GR - so he took leave of us to find lodging after we exchanged goodbyes - uncertain if we'd meet again.
The boat we rode to Geneva was newer and faster. Crowded too. We were on our feet most of the time in the pleasantly cool boat created breeze. After a short stop at Hermance we reached the interesting and beautiful harbor of Geneva in gorgeous late afternoon light- the towering fountain, festival tourists crowding the waterfront along with traffic made for sensory overload after the countryside of the last many weeks. We parted with Nick here after almost a month of traveling together more or less. He was heading home to Holland / work and other adventures. He plans cross the alps another year. We settled in to our hotel not far from the waterfront - Edelweiss. A tourist hotel it was very nice and comfortable with amenities. The restaurant however was a bit of a tourist trap with yodeling , accordion music etc where the Asian tourists came up to give a puff on the horn. We had a beef fondue with fries- and just water for 85$ - that's after the 15% off coupon! Better luck tomorrow!
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