I had been studying the weather closely as we approached the Alps and weather in these high places can trap you as a whiteout above tree-line can obscure the route. You can be 4 meters from a signpost and not see it! Add to that wind and lightning - well you are stuck potentially. The forecast for 2 days out from the hotel was superb but followed by 1-2 days of the type of nastiness I mentioned. What to do? Our planned schedule was to climb and spend the night in the Dent d Oche a nearby peak with a summit refuge near the lake and renowned for incredible lake views. However I noted on our approach the summit was perpetually in clouds so my enthusiasm for this diminished in light of the forecast. Furthermore about 2 days further in was a segment with 3 passes described as some of the most beautiful alps walking on the GR - which again seemed to be squarely in this bad weather period. Perhaps I overreacted but decided that we should hike directly to Chapelle d Aboundance in good weather. Then skip the following walking segment by taking a taxi the following day to the Col d Bassachaux and walking the high scenic segment in good weather again to reach the Chalet Mines d Or. This also bought us 2 extra days with which we could rest - (and during which I am writing this!
I knew it would be a tough day and so we left a bit early walking through the scenic resort area of Bernex. Cute chalet cabins and plentiful lodging here with some signs at 30€ per night. The road steepens out of town and seemed hard immediately paralleling a stream to the parking area of la Fetiuere where there is a restaurant at 1200meters 5km from the hotel. We were sweating despite the cool air. From here we began rocky trail up along the stream - then crossing it on a footbridge. Upwards finally clearing the tree-line we reached the Chalets d Oche which is a fromagerie as well ( cheese production and sales! )Tammy had felt the pain and commented "I don't know if I can do this". This was for her an an "Eye of the Tiger" moment,
Most of the day walkers here kept on up towards the Dent d Oche which was making peak a boo glimpses in the clouds. We kept on towards the Lac de la Casse where we joined the GR5 coming up from Thonon. We spoke to some Dutch day hikers and paused in the spectacular scenery. I phoned the Dent d Oche to tell them we weren't coming- no problem- and they passed along the message that our friend Lieven had stayed there!
We climbed on passing beautiful patches of alpine flowers with granite walls as a backdrop. The views just became better and crossing the pass at Portes d Oche - 1937m - I am at a loss for superlatives. We crossed into and descended while traversed a large green basin with a beautiful lake - distant green peaks. then back up to another pass Col d Pavis at 1944m. We stopped for lunch here and dug out massive sandwiches we'd bought from the hotel - the best I'd eaten all summer and I only finished half. While we ate a large herd of bouquetin ( ibex) sat nearby.
About 1pm we pushed on descending into more jaw dropping scenery now affording views again down through the steep cliffs to the lake and the cites along it. The GR descends but I called to Tammy as i noticed a side trail with the arrow Bise painted on rock. She came back up and we took this after referring to my phone app Iphigenie . This is a French based iPhone app which has all the IGN topo maps in quickly changeable detail - and locates you on it! Huge value and I could instantly see the value of this side route. So we traversed towards the Col d Bise seeing the GR descend 100m - meet the GR branch from St Gingolph far far below to join and then rise back to us. Looking back just blow the Col d Bise I paused to take in the superb view knowing that when we crossed the col we would not see the lake again. But when we went over the pass at 1915m we were again stunned by a vast green basin with rim peaks and rock walls the Chalet far below. The descent is steep, the dry footing sketchy at time - I can't imagine in the rain. And it is unrelenting - Tammy had her trekking poles out which she never does. The chalet was 513m below and our thighs were shaking when we arrived. I could see a place to stop for drinks and figured out too late that we needed to have gone a bit further to have found the Chalet. As it happened we followed the GR to sign indicating more then 2 hours to our destination. It was 3:30 a Tammy wanted to get it done. What I had somehow overlooked when I was deciding this route the day prior was that from the Chalet de Bise there is another pass to climb - 314 meters- to the Pas de la Bosse @ 1816 meters/ almost 6000 feet. I'm not sure of the distance it does this in but a mile seems right. Half way up we paused to breath about every 20 steps but inched along and finally reached the col only to face another long descent to the hotel. We spoke to another Dutch family and then in a trance began the descent. After 20 minutes I called a halt - out of gas I wolfed down the remainder of the sandwich chocolate etc. Tammy ate a bit but her stomach was cranky by now. So down we went past a farm building onto steep dirt road. The road approaches a large rock and tree - a GR marker on the rock. Tammy was ahead and followed the road as did I missing the turn onto trail - a mistake. The road met the trail far below but was longer and painfully steep and gravel slick. The trail had to have been better. Dazed we sat near the parking lot and cooled in a spring water trough. We followed the GR signs and the walkers sign with arrow pointing to Chapelle dA. This headed up a road not down as expected and I finally consulted the app and we backtracked thankfully not too far and saw the GR went down the grass to a stream, crossed a bridge and turned left heading downstream on comfortable trail. Eventually back onto tarmac we road walked downhill into our town o'd Chapelle d Aboundance and right to our upscale hotel Gentianettes @ 17:40. Trashed, we checked into the bunny room on the third floor mercifully reached by lift. There was a back deck with rushing stream sounds . Hydrating, showering and hand washing the clothes I rested. Tammy crashed- she mentioned dry heaves and had no interest in dinner. I encouraged hydration, gave her a sleeper and didn't see movement till morning. I went down to dine- there is fine French dining upstairs and rustic dining downstairs so down I went. Trashed, I couldn't remember the room number for the waitress and had to go back up to get it! I had a wonderful meal of local melted cheese, thin ham smoked at the hotel and picked vegetables . Very satisfying along with the blueberry ice cream drenched in blueberries . I slept very deep. Day totals 4450 ft up / 4480 ft down. Honestly the was one of the most if not the most stunningly beautiful days of mountain hiking I'd ever enjoyed. Our two and a half months of walking had conditioned us to make it possible - I couldn't have done it 2 months before hand. The exertion was epic but the next day we were good to go unlike the 200 mile STP one day ride last summer when I wasn't right for days. Bottom line, I think we can do this!
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