6/2 Spa to Stavelot

After a breakfast we followed the route back into town where we bought groceries for lunch then headed back out of town. Steeply uphill we were rapidly looking back down at Spa before entering the woods. The route continued to climb but tracking along a stream originating in part from intermittent springs you hardly notice . The woods were nice and you cross the stream back and forth on little bridges. Leveling off on forest roads eventually we reached a boggy open area the Fagne de Malchamps. This is a natural preserve and there is a good boardwalk with interpretive signs as well as a lookout tower with great far reaching views - where we rested a bit. We were approached by some walkers who asked about our plans and we had a short talk sharing our past and present adventures. They are doing the GR5 incrementally. We gave them a card and hope to hear more from them! Then we started back downhill leaving the wood we passed thru an hamlet with different stonework quite picturesque - Berinzenne.
We continued down until we reached the valley bottom where we ate our lunch on a bench. Then back sharply up hill along a tree lined path finally reaching a bench with a lookout. We then crossed another soggy bog without the benefit of puncheon amidst stretches of brilliant Scotch Broom. Then back downhill towards Stavelot our destination . Following a stream as we neared town the path crosses the road and descends into a tunnel which carries the stream - you emerge into town! Stavelot is another town of old Europe. The front lines during the Battle of the Bulge with Ambleve across the river, google provides plenty of reference to this. But there is more here - a very old Abby is sited here and the more modern portions have a museum. There is a legend here of a wolf that didn't carry off a farmers child - a good omen and the wolf motif is throughout the town. There is a longstanding carnival which feature participants in white hooded gowns and long red noses. This is related apparently to the monks being forbidden to participate in the carnival and the townspeople mocking them in this way.
When reaching the hotel, which given the proximity to the racetrack I had booked last November, we were told that there were no rooms- it was his -the proprietors fault - he had lost track of the booking.com posting and perhaps it was my fault for booking so long ago! Two German guys arrived in the same pickle. He called a lady with rooms to rent and with openings drove us there. She spoke no English but was great, very friendly and glad to have us. Every other room was booked in town for the nearby race event, but she did not have internet - so still had openings.The bed was ok but good enough certainly and very clean. Situated, Tammy caught a snooze while I went out and caught photos. I met up with the Germans doing the same. We had a good talk and they were visiting for the F1 racing that weekend. They made a remarkably generous offer- take us to the races then drop us at our hotel the next night ! As I pitched this to Tam and she had a sparkle in her eye that betrayed her answer. The next walking day was short through the Ardennes and the weather was predicted to be very cold and very rainy. Yes let's go to the Races!

5/31-6/1 Friapont to Spa and Spa

We awoke to another misty morning but with clean cool country air. A wonderful breakfast was set before us and various samples of local Abby cheeses were set out for us to try. I discovered a dark chocolate spread which Katleen explained is very popular in Belgium and her children eat daily on toast. Yummmmmm - lucky kids!!
We said our goodbyes and left hoping somehow to hear from these lovely people again. We backtracked up the hill to our pickup point the previous day , and caught the GR 563 and followed it downhill through the woods to a side trail which placed us on the road. Confident of our direction I had us turn left instead of right and discovered the mistake after half a mile where we passed under some railroad tracks. We stopped and relocated our position and then with pure luck discovered a path leading up to the tracks that became a pedestrian crossing over the river leading directly into Friapont and the GR5.
Out of Friapont he trail led us steeply up a hillside rapidly climbing above the town and continued sharply up for a good bit - the biggest up so far. We leveled out and then walked forest roads quietly enjoying the birdsong and passing a old man with binoculars. We rested at a bench and cooled our feet beneath a sign commenting on - we think- feral pigs. We moved on leaving the woods and on side roads appoached a town of Bannoux. We passed an really ancient couple with packs - the woman in broken English ask of us and wanted to know our destination?. Nice! And our pack weight? 13kg! Too much too much she said. Waving her finger. The old toothless man grinned and chuckled the whole time. A memorable encounter and it's nice to know you can entertain with your mere presence. We reached the religious site of international fame - apparently the statue of Virgin Mary has shed tears....and the spring waters are renowned.. I walked into the info station and a little shriveled nun looked up with an expression suggesting the Satan himself had entered the room . Her colleague quickly directed us to the water source. And indeed it was the best tasting water we've had to date so we filled up. After looking around we sat down to a lunch we had packed from breakfast enjoying aging the cheeses, chocolate spread and hard boiled eggs. We moved on heading for Spa. Crossing some woodlands we went through a very stinky area and again saw pig signs. Winding along farm lanes we passed more cattle - the Belgian blues. One was just shocking with muscle. The air was warm as we headed downhill to the town of La Reid and we found a perfect bench for a rest with a view of the hamlet while we cooled our feet. The clouds grew darker and we moved on through town and over the ridge to the valley of Spa. Suddenly the signs directed us down a narrow 3 ft overgrown corridor between barb wire fences for some ways. Then down a road I heard Tammy behind me say "it turns here" ! There we two large groups of cattle by the road and the trail turns down another path between them so close I could the touched them on both sides as I passed.. No I didn't!
The trail became sketchier and more overgrown with hedgerow- first we were pushing the rotten fence posts forward to create a path but finally we just climbed it into the pasture and eyeing the cattle walked quickly to where we could sanely exit. We hit a small town before Spa and exited the GR5 for a side road that took us passt a large military installation - home of the 11/12 Belgian regiment. There was construction in the street before our hotel - actually it took 30 minutes to find and accsess the place with machines blocking  right in front. Grrr.... Situated we went to town and made a spa appointment for Tammy ( it is the Spa after all )! We then met Chris Quigg , who we met our second day and had communicated with daily, for dinner. He chose a great restaurant for us -
La Tonnelerie. He and Tammy had well prepared steaks while I had a white fish St. Jacques. He introduced us to a new beer as well - Karmeliet tripel which we really enjoyed. We admire Chris for many things - including his fluency with French and his wanderlust that we share and aspire too! We will miss him and his encouragement ! Our next day was devoted to an easy look around Spa, housekeeping and finally an afternoon at the hot springs - the Thermes.
Spa is an old tourist town with the local springs having drawn visitors for centuries. The architecture is old, varied and interesting. Nearby is the famous racetrack Circuit D' Francorchamps with Formula 1 racing which keeps the city and it's big casino busy. People were pouring into town for the weekend racing. We finally ended up at the Thermes - 2 euro gets you round trip up the hill on the funicular or you an walk- we rode. The spa is 18€ for three hours with large indoor & outdoor pools as well as sauna- wet and dry. I did all that while Tammy took out am hour for her massage which she enjoyed. Well soaked we descended into town for dinner but the restaurant recommended wasn't open so we went for some Italian food at Brasserie De Thermes. We had an excellent dinner Tammy with tagliatelle vert with scampi while I had a spaghetti frutii d mari accompanied by a nice half bottle of Bordeaux . No room for desert! We retired rested and ready to walk.

5/30 Walking Liege to Friapont

We awoke to a grey misty city and after breakfast quickly bought a few things to eat and caught the 410 bus towards Vise. We disembarked at Chattelet before Vise and using google earth guidance followed streets straight up the hill and around to connect with the GR 5 where it passes under the A3 highway. We noted at that point that other GRs share this crossing including the famed Campostella Santiago route which indeed extends up north into Holland. The weather was perfect and what ensued was our best walking day of the trip - and blister free! The landscape south of the Meuse is beautiful rolling hills with interspersed villages, fields and woods. You move through them all working those legs up and down the hills. I particularly enjoyed a piece where we crossed a gate into an open mowed field the path standing out as a greener stripe across it. A wonderful free open feeling across it. We walked by signs of an old fort and sighted a large - out of place- hill which we eventually walked by. Turns out it was old mine tailings. We made a point of stopping and breathing our feet ,which we felt would hold the blisters at bay.  Using a google earth diagram I had saved months ago we went off route to reach our B&B - and it was wrong!! I finally hauled out the phone and called our hostess Katleeen who raced over in her miniCooper. We somehow jumped in with our stuff and she took us about 400 yds downhill to our destination. Converted from an old barn and situated in a speck of a village Katleen and her husband Chris have created a wonderful walkers /bikers destination -Aux Quatre Bonniers. Our hosts cooked us a home made spaghetti dinner and they joined us for wine. They are such fun people to talk too we immediately regretted the fact we were only there for a night. Desert was cherries off their huge backyard tree. In the peacefulness of the setting we slept great after a glorious day.