Heavy rain overnight and lingering when we awoke. But it thinned a bit so by the time we walked out after breakfast I could a least take off the rain pants. We walked into town and found lunch supplies at the grocery. Lieven caught up no sign of Nick so we headed out. The route crosses green fields straight at and then up the ridge above town. Switch-backing steeply up sometimes slick rock we were quickly into the fog. Along the ridge through the trees we we came to a viewpoint and magically a few cloud breaks allowed us to see the lakes, village and fields below. The route runs the ridge with border stones reminding us we were in Switzerland on this part. Finally the route turns off the ridge onto the maze of forest roads . We had lunch at a small shelter rustic but with a good stove even curtains. We can't help but reflect how these open structures would be vandalized ruthlessly in our own country. Sad.
The road / occasional trail was easy walking and undulated along without much to mention except for the variety of wild flowers. Tammy had a good time finding new ones and took many photos. We hope to get them posted someday if we could figure a way to link them to the blog- frustrating.
We reached the Rose Chalet where a sign said it was 12km to Les Rousses- no way! It was 3pm and we knew were we're closed then that!! GPS said 2 linear miles and maps similar. So on we went with a quicker pace and we began to encounter day hikers within an hour and signage indicating 2km then 1.5 then 1.7 then 2.1 -- okay we were getting closer! The descent to town was steep and muddy / slick . Aggravating on sore feet. Finally on tarmac, we walked into town where Lieven split off to find lodging. We went off not completely oriented when an older kind gentlemen approached and asked if we knew where we were.? He directed us back to town.
Where we ran back into Lieven who had a map which showed our hotel. We rested together having a cold drink when Nick materialized and we caught up on the day. There is an old fort in town hidden in the trees and Nick had photos. Interesting but not spectacular and we veered off route to our hotel about 3km. It was a nice Logis hotel and from our room we could see the mountain ridges before the lake and Geneva. We had a simple meal before turning in.
Tuesday, July 31, 2012
7/28 Mouthe to Chapelle des Bois
I envied Nick his ground for a bed after this night! Nothing worse then a crappy mattress. Down at breakfast things were simple - a baguette with a choice of spreads, coffee or tea, warm juice in previously opened bottles. My inner ability to go with the flow braked when I opened the honey to confront a dead fly. Time to leave....
The day was overcast and cooler - a relief predicted by the weatherman but at bit a of fizzle from the deluge promised - and that was fine.
We walked up to town and picked up lunch supplies - nice little tourist town in summer but apparently more so winter with much cross country skiing.
Back out of town we found ourselves down wind of a freshly manure sprayed field - the shitsen veld revisited and we suffered along at quick pace for a good twenty minutes.
The route climbed gently off the road into the woods. We'd seen considerable wood cutting in the area- really all along the GR way back north. But the wood stacking was vigorous /epic even here. We had seen cutting and stacking actively over the last few days. But coming down the road to a junction, we encountered a wood stack of jaw dropping proportions. 15 feet or more high and 75 long it dwarfed us. Mouthe has the nickname "little Siberia" for the record cold temperatures sometimes recorded there - -41C on one occasion! I suspect there is considerable wood burned in the winter. We hiked out of the woods reaching hilly pasture suggestive of glacial moraine. It was Saturday and hikers and cyclists were out desire the sprinkles. But then. These were a relief from days past. We entered Chauve Nueve as the sprinkles grew more serious and immediately heard our name called from behind - there was Nick on the hotel terrace having a coffee. We joined him and the rain fell hard. We looked at the hotel and it was clearly the better choice over the previous night and not at all a difficult walk further. After our drinks and some brioche, we all moved on. Not far out of town we walked by a huge ski jump facility of international repute. The route then stayed in green pastures or in the woods beside it which stretched as a verdant corridor essentially all the way to Chapelle des Bois. The walk was easy and very pleasant. We arrived in town at our Gite which was very walker oriented and very comfortable indeed. There was even a sauna but I didn't get too it. Right next door was a bar restaurant where Nick settled in. My gut was upset probably from breakfast but they had Guinness which is more like food really so I joined him for one and invited him to dinner. Nick sat with us along with a Belgian couple on holiday, Lieven and an American- Gregory Viscusi- a journalist for Bloomberg news stationed in Paris. He was a great person to talk with and what a neat way to catch up on the world after a few days without Internet or weeks of really caring! Another segment completed it was a good birthday as well.
The day was overcast and cooler - a relief predicted by the weatherman but at bit a of fizzle from the deluge promised - and that was fine.
We walked up to town and picked up lunch supplies - nice little tourist town in summer but apparently more so winter with much cross country skiing.
Back out of town we found ourselves down wind of a freshly manure sprayed field - the shitsen veld revisited and we suffered along at quick pace for a good twenty minutes.
The route climbed gently off the road into the woods. We'd seen considerable wood cutting in the area- really all along the GR way back north. But the wood stacking was vigorous /epic even here. We had seen cutting and stacking actively over the last few days. But coming down the road to a junction, we encountered a wood stack of jaw dropping proportions. 15 feet or more high and 75 long it dwarfed us. Mouthe has the nickname "little Siberia" for the record cold temperatures sometimes recorded there - -41C on one occasion! I suspect there is considerable wood burned in the winter. We hiked out of the woods reaching hilly pasture suggestive of glacial moraine. It was Saturday and hikers and cyclists were out desire the sprinkles. But then. These were a relief from days past. We entered Chauve Nueve as the sprinkles grew more serious and immediately heard our name called from behind - there was Nick on the hotel terrace having a coffee. We joined him and the rain fell hard. We looked at the hotel and it was clearly the better choice over the previous night and not at all a difficult walk further. After our drinks and some brioche, we all moved on. Not far out of town we walked by a huge ski jump facility of international repute. The route then stayed in green pastures or in the woods beside it which stretched as a verdant corridor essentially all the way to Chapelle des Bois. The walk was easy and very pleasant. We arrived in town at our Gite which was very walker oriented and very comfortable indeed. There was even a sauna but I didn't get too it. Right next door was a bar restaurant where Nick settled in. My gut was upset probably from breakfast but they had Guinness which is more like food really so I joined him for one and invited him to dinner. Nick sat with us along with a Belgian couple on holiday, Lieven and an American- Gregory Viscusi- a journalist for Bloomberg news stationed in Paris. He was a great person to talk with and what a neat way to catch up on the world after a few days without Internet or weeks of really caring! Another segment completed it was a good birthday as well.
Sunday, July 29, 2012
7/27 Gros Morond to Mouthe
Slept well an awoke to the ongoing cow bell background. Beautiful skies awaited. The water at the refuge is via rainwater cistern and the previous night, I had boiled our supply for the day. Packed up quickly, we were eating some breakfast outside in the warm sun when the guardian arrived. Very pleasant and fun to talk with, her car was parked outside the cattle barrier. As we enjoyed a chat we heard banging- the cattle surrounded her car and their bells were smacking into it!! She ran down to shoo them away - no apparent damage done. The cows can be very inquisitive!
Our new Belgian aquaintance, Lieven, was only 3 days into his walk and feeling the altitude. So we took off regaining the ridge above the refuge. It was a great place to experience!
On the ridge we climbed steadily to the Mont d'Or. The tallest part of the ridge. Wonderful hazy scenery to the east and to the south the hazy outline of the Mount Blanc massif could be seem. Exciting! Approaching the summit a saw a figure running and no surprise - Nick awaited us on top! We caught up while enjoying the scenery, which now included parasail enthusiasts riding the thermals at cliff edge. Lieven caught up and we all stood around chatting to the extent that I became distracted and as we ambled off the ridge taking photos, I left my trekking poles at the top - so back I went to fetch them. It's steep down the hill but not excessively so first on road then on trail. A popular area quite a few day hikers were out and as the day heated up we found many groups resting in shade. We were feeling it too so when we spotted an apparent terrace with umbrellas we headed over to a rather upscale country auberge restaurant where Nick and Lieven were having a drink. As it was only 11:30 no one seemed interested in food while those around us were eating pizza and the smell was working on me. Looking across the field at the trail I saw 2 hikers and said "it's them - the Dutch couple!" . Nick hailed them over and they were of course confused at who could be calling them. We had only met them once briefly on June 4 - nearly 2 months ago - the only other through hikers we knew of and we had often wondered where they were and how they were doing. So it felt like a reunion of old friends and we spent the rest of the day walking together with Nick as well - interesting to hear a Dutch conversation. We ate lunch under some trees before moving on and with really an easy down hill day reached Mouthe early in the day. We stayed at a Gite near the source of the Doubs. Many tourists here seeking cool in the frigid water coming from the ground. The water was actually painful to stand in but Nick jumped straight in over his head and shot back out like a rocket! It would have killed me! The lodging was "fair" - a common room with multiple bunk beds - a sink room with showers and two hallway toilets. The mattresses were as old as me perhaps. Two French guys were staying here and eventually Lieven booked in as well. The French were aggressively touring the GTJ trail of the Jura - one road a mountain bike while the other ran after one hour they switch! They were doing 40-50km a day this way. One of them had biked 40,000 km around the world - he had the seriousness of a driven athlete - I admired these guys for their accomplishment. Nick stuck around for dinner and the food was hearty and plentiful with vegetables , sausage meats cooked into a nice large dishes. The cheese board afterward was good too. Sleep in the dorm however. - not so good...
Our new Belgian aquaintance, Lieven, was only 3 days into his walk and feeling the altitude. So we took off regaining the ridge above the refuge. It was a great place to experience!
On the ridge we climbed steadily to the Mont d'Or. The tallest part of the ridge. Wonderful hazy scenery to the east and to the south the hazy outline of the Mount Blanc massif could be seem. Exciting! Approaching the summit a saw a figure running and no surprise - Nick awaited us on top! We caught up while enjoying the scenery, which now included parasail enthusiasts riding the thermals at cliff edge. Lieven caught up and we all stood around chatting to the extent that I became distracted and as we ambled off the ridge taking photos, I left my trekking poles at the top - so back I went to fetch them. It's steep down the hill but not excessively so first on road then on trail. A popular area quite a few day hikers were out and as the day heated up we found many groups resting in shade. We were feeling it too so when we spotted an apparent terrace with umbrellas we headed over to a rather upscale country auberge restaurant where Nick and Lieven were having a drink. As it was only 11:30 no one seemed interested in food while those around us were eating pizza and the smell was working on me. Looking across the field at the trail I saw 2 hikers and said "it's them - the Dutch couple!" . Nick hailed them over and they were of course confused at who could be calling them. We had only met them once briefly on June 4 - nearly 2 months ago - the only other through hikers we knew of and we had often wondered where they were and how they were doing. So it felt like a reunion of old friends and we spent the rest of the day walking together with Nick as well - interesting to hear a Dutch conversation. We ate lunch under some trees before moving on and with really an easy down hill day reached Mouthe early in the day. We stayed at a Gite near the source of the Doubs. Many tourists here seeking cool in the frigid water coming from the ground. The water was actually painful to stand in but Nick jumped straight in over his head and shot back out like a rocket! It would have killed me! The lodging was "fair" - a common room with multiple bunk beds - a sink room with showers and two hallway toilets. The mattresses were as old as me perhaps. Two French guys were staying here and eventually Lieven booked in as well. The French were aggressively touring the GTJ trail of the Jura - one road a mountain bike while the other ran after one hour they switch! They were doing 40-50km a day this way. One of them had biked 40,000 km around the world - he had the seriousness of a driven athlete - I admired these guys for their accomplishment. Nick stuck around for dinner and the food was hearty and plentiful with vegetables , sausage meats cooked into a nice large dishes. The cheese board afterward was good too. Sleep in the dorm however. - not so good...
Saturday, July 28, 2012
7/26 Cluse et Mijoux to Refuge Gros Morond
We woke up late in our Pontralier hotel after a wonderful sleep - 8:30! But we hustled and were packed and ready for breakfast by 9. Nick appeared and after a chat we went for errands as Nick had his own. We ordered a cab which arrived - the same driver as before! Amazingly I had left my sunglasses somewhere yesterday and he had them in the car! Good luck!
We started walking where we had left off the day prior and it felt just as hot already. The GR5 follows a route southeast of town which in years past was the variant - while the prior GR was part of the GRJ.
We climbed steeply into the woods my legs heavy but not really sore or stiff despite the huge push the day before .
Limbering up and drinking water I felt stronger - we emerged by a small community with a ice cold fountain where I immersed my head and arms. Cooled and the air cooler out of the valley, we climbed into the woods where we felt energized and kept a strong pace uphill without much sense of exertion. We reached an overlook with a pick-nick table where we rested, snacked and left Nick a note. Eventually we made a descent onto the shallow plateau holding open fields and the winter ski town of La Fourg. The center street was under construction and the broad gravel boulevard with tall buildings on either side felt like a wild west town in the afternoon heat. We located a restaurant and had lunch outside - the plat du jour was chicken in a compte cheese sauce with a bit of quiche. Tammy had a massive burger. About 2 pm we walked on climbing to the chapel overlooking the town then up the road to where we took a wrong turn to the right mis-guided by the old gps route while the real GR swung right. Luckily it didn't matter as they came back together entering and crossing a series of farmers fields before hitting a road which we then descended. I hate route anxiety. Almost into Hopital Vieux the route vexingly left the road and swung around and above the town in brushy humid woods - if I had to do it again I would have just kept on the road. We descended into busy Hopital Neufs - a tourist town at the base of Gros Morond a ski mountain where our CAF refuge was located. So we stopped for refreshment - ice cream for Tam and a banana chocolte crepe for me. The sky which was ever dark through the afternoon rumbled then let loose - a massive deluge, the air chilled in a flash. We waited an hour till it let up then headed out at 18:20. Rested we climbed steeply then very steeply finally entering an area where it hasn't rained at all! The cliffs cleared and the sun created beautiful evening light cast across the green rial landscape just below but also large up thrust hills of the Jura formation in the distance. At the petite Morond chalet we stopped to watch the cows come down. One was eating a long length of rope but it ran off when Tam tried to intervene. Reaching the top by 20:00 in fine light and views all around I had to dig out the map to locate the refuge. About 0.8 km further on and down to the right the Club Alpin France refuge was a great place to spend the night - hot showers! We had a big dorm to ourselves while a Belgian walker and a couple caring for troubled boys had 3 of them there as well . They had some left over spaghetti which my stomach welcomed. We were serenaded by the cow bells of the herd which surrounded the refuge for the night.
We started walking where we had left off the day prior and it felt just as hot already. The GR5 follows a route southeast of town which in years past was the variant - while the prior GR was part of the GRJ.
We climbed steeply into the woods my legs heavy but not really sore or stiff despite the huge push the day before .
Limbering up and drinking water I felt stronger - we emerged by a small community with a ice cold fountain where I immersed my head and arms. Cooled and the air cooler out of the valley, we climbed into the woods where we felt energized and kept a strong pace uphill without much sense of exertion. We reached an overlook with a pick-nick table where we rested, snacked and left Nick a note. Eventually we made a descent onto the shallow plateau holding open fields and the winter ski town of La Fourg. The center street was under construction and the broad gravel boulevard with tall buildings on either side felt like a wild west town in the afternoon heat. We located a restaurant and had lunch outside - the plat du jour was chicken in a compte cheese sauce with a bit of quiche. Tammy had a massive burger. About 2 pm we walked on climbing to the chapel overlooking the town then up the road to where we took a wrong turn to the right mis-guided by the old gps route while the real GR swung right. Luckily it didn't matter as they came back together entering and crossing a series of farmers fields before hitting a road which we then descended. I hate route anxiety. Almost into Hopital Vieux the route vexingly left the road and swung around and above the town in brushy humid woods - if I had to do it again I would have just kept on the road. We descended into busy Hopital Neufs - a tourist town at the base of Gros Morond a ski mountain where our CAF refuge was located. So we stopped for refreshment - ice cream for Tam and a banana chocolte crepe for me. The sky which was ever dark through the afternoon rumbled then let loose - a massive deluge, the air chilled in a flash. We waited an hour till it let up then headed out at 18:20. Rested we climbed steeply then very steeply finally entering an area where it hasn't rained at all! The cliffs cleared and the sun created beautiful evening light cast across the green rial landscape just below but also large up thrust hills of the Jura formation in the distance. At the petite Morond chalet we stopped to watch the cows come down. One was eating a long length of rope but it ran off when Tam tried to intervene. Reaching the top by 20:00 in fine light and views all around I had to dig out the map to locate the refuge. About 0.8 km further on and down to the right the Club Alpin France refuge was a great place to spend the night - hot showers! We had a big dorm to ourselves while a Belgian walker and a couple caring for troubled boys had 3 of them there as well . They had some left over spaghetti which my stomach welcomed. We were serenaded by the cow bells of the herd which surrounded the refuge for the night.
7/24 Villers du Lac to Vieux Chateleu
Our room was situated above a busy street which kept me from a restful sleep. The air was already warm as we ventured out - Nick was outside ready to go but we made another quick stop at the grocery before hitting the road. I bought a straw hat to replace the one I lost- cowboy style at that! The GR starts climbing into the sun heading east up roads mostly before some really steep segments up the hill crest. The occasional views below to town continually improve. We reached an auberge du Rocher where Nick rounded up some cool drinks as we sat in the shade. Tammy had fun with a playful kitten. When we left it followed us quite a ways until Nick dropped his pack and jogged back to the auberge with the kitten then ran like mad back to leave it behind and to catch up. A funny scene! Gaining altitude moderated the temperatures and in the shade of the woods it was perfect for our efforts. We passed along Swiss border stones as we gained the crest. Near a telecommunications tower we past an enthusiastic young walker out for a few days heading north. He seemed excited for our walk and we gave him a blog card. Further on the woods opened onto a rural plateau and we past some magnificent farmhouses in an idyllic setting. Here we crawled under an electric fence to sit in the shade of a tree as cows moved closer in curiosity, their bells clanging. Refreshed we moved onward using road and trail undulating along. We stopped at a spot to hike downhill a ways to the Grand Cave . Ditching our packs made this easy - the cave was interesting but the views down the valley more so. Nick scraped his foot retrieving the packs which gave him some trouble. But just a bit further on we walked by a beautiful farmhouse with people about and stopped for a chat. A beautiful chapel built by the mans great grandfather was well decorated. Nick had some foot care offered and while we stood there a young family of 4 walked by - 2 small children with ambitious parents. It flashed me back to times with my girls. We finally got going again and passed the family on hot road. Eventually we reached the Auberge Vieux Chateleu our stop for the night. There was a great bar / dining area with old photos and memorabilia. Apparently a man from this farm crossed the border to warn the allies of V1 production in WW2. We sat on the pick --nick tables in a warm breeze before going in sipping cool drinks. Inside the room was amazingly upscale even with a kitchenette. Laundry hung out in the hot air , I joined Nick awhile before he moved on further down the road. Our dinner was massive - steak in a mushroom sauce while I had duck with mountain morels. We shared a good salad and ended up uncomfortably stuffed. So I slept sub optimally a second night!
7/25 Vieux Chateleu to Cluse et Mijoux
This was a day difficult due to its length 30 km may be more route dependent. There were variant route options to give potential bailout pathways but then distance would tack onto the next day which had its own issues already. On top of the distance was heat which was predicted to build thru the week.
We got up from our gluttonous sleep early ate and were booting out by 8:10. The sun was hot out the door and we dressed the occasion. We moved out quickly down hill then off into a field climbing a bit then descending on slick dewy trail ....then back to the road -- just stay on the road for this part! We road walked briskly but stopping now and then for pictures of cattle - their bells clanging. Cattle - our constant companions on the trip. We passed through the village of Grand Mont situated pastorally but surrounded by coniferous forests and the up thrust ridges of the Jura. Walking out of town we approached such a ridge entering forest where we came upon and passed the family of walkers we'd seen the day before - their kids sucking down water already. Hope they did ok. Reaching the ridge the route turns and parallels the face climbing its shoulder steeply before emerging into open pastures crossing a rock wall into Swiss. Nice walking in these big pastures although hot, and we climbed again into trees overlooking the cattle in the pasture below that we'd left behind. Basically we reached the ridge top and a farm where we then walked road perhaps a km before starting a long descent through trees into a canyon where a stream cooled the air.along here we looked down to see a note pinned to the ground from Nick saying he had taken a side variant to Montbenoit to see the abbey. Amazingly on the back of the paper was another message to us from a couple we'd met months ago in Begium - Sebastian and Suzzane who were also through hiking the route but camping. They hoped to meet up! Many questions presented - did they meet Nick and learn of us? How far ahead were they? I realized in retrospect I'd seen them from a distance back in Villers but didn't make the connection.
So on we went re-entering the heat at Les Allies where I figured we'd find food or at least water. But no eateries here! I asked a man in his yard to fill up water but he said the town water was found contaminated last week and only bottle water worked. He gave me a 1.25 liter bottle and would accept nothing for it! Just out of town we parked in the shade of a tree on damp ground with breeze - I sat on my rainwear. The moisture added to the cooling and we rehydrated and ate a light lunch - boots off - could have napped.
Stepping a few feet away onto the road was like a blast furnace. We later heard the valley temperatures in the sun on the road reached 42C ! Pacing along the road we past 2 farms climbing toward a ridge where the trail split and a variant presented which was 5km shorter. A no brainer in these conditions we began a descent parallel to the ridge passing closely among cattle then a group of horses stationary seeking refuge from the heat In the trees. Finally the trail is a road following a water course - bone dry- which cuts through the ridge. The air here was cool nevertheless and we walked strongly up it till hitting a junction of road and trail - the main GR. Roadwalking upward in full sun the air smelled of melted tar as we moved quickly between shady spots which always seemed breezy and remarkably cool compared to sun a few feet away. Finally back into the woods it was great to walk off pavement but the air was still here and warm for very steep climbing toward the crest of the Larimont ridge. Here another variant presents which I wish we could have taken as it runs the crest to a high fortress and long views. As it was, this had become a "bit" of an ordeal. Exiting forest into pasture we rested in the breezy shade near cows then pushed on an gently up finally reaching a farm where the ridge descends. We started down in green lawn park like conditions. Day walkers here and several spurs lead to Pontralier our evening destination. But we descended the ridge as planned resting in cool shade yet again. Finally we walked by lower Fort Larimont / Mahler. Moving below it the castle Joux came into view on the opposite hill - back lit it didn't photograph well. The final rocky rough road switchback descent was painful with each step and we finished our water as we reached the bottom in the town Cluse et Mijoux .
Directly in front of us was a Absynthe distillery with the door invitingly open. So right off the trail we stepped into the cool building. Nice WC here too. A young man with excellent English offered a brief tour. So we had this great personal tour of the distillery with the original copper vats more then a century old and pre dating the 70 year ban on Absynthe. The process was explained along with the history of the drink. Then we were taken to a back room which had a fascinating display of their product and old posters. We were offered a sip of several liquors which we carefully tried given our patched state. The feet felt better immediately and they graciously called a taxi which took us to our hotel . The driver spoke no English but we enjoyed practicing our French and he was all for it - between Tam and I + the Absynthe it was a fun conversation! The hotel St Pierre was wonderful and we cleaned up and in the warm evening air had burgers at a street cafe. Toward the end of the meal a plump moustached semi intoxicated fellow sat next to us and began attempting to converse with us in general and hit on Tammy more in particular. A crazy end to an overwhelming day . We both slept deep and long.
We got up from our gluttonous sleep early ate and were booting out by 8:10. The sun was hot out the door and we dressed the occasion. We moved out quickly down hill then off into a field climbing a bit then descending on slick dewy trail ....then back to the road -- just stay on the road for this part! We road walked briskly but stopping now and then for pictures of cattle - their bells clanging. Cattle - our constant companions on the trip. We passed through the village of Grand Mont situated pastorally but surrounded by coniferous forests and the up thrust ridges of the Jura. Walking out of town we approached such a ridge entering forest where we came upon and passed the family of walkers we'd seen the day before - their kids sucking down water already. Hope they did ok. Reaching the ridge the route turns and parallels the face climbing its shoulder steeply before emerging into open pastures crossing a rock wall into Swiss. Nice walking in these big pastures although hot, and we climbed again into trees overlooking the cattle in the pasture below that we'd left behind. Basically we reached the ridge top and a farm where we then walked road perhaps a km before starting a long descent through trees into a canyon where a stream cooled the air.along here we looked down to see a note pinned to the ground from Nick saying he had taken a side variant to Montbenoit to see the abbey. Amazingly on the back of the paper was another message to us from a couple we'd met months ago in Begium - Sebastian and Suzzane who were also through hiking the route but camping. They hoped to meet up! Many questions presented - did they meet Nick and learn of us? How far ahead were they? I realized in retrospect I'd seen them from a distance back in Villers but didn't make the connection.
So on we went re-entering the heat at Les Allies where I figured we'd find food or at least water. But no eateries here! I asked a man in his yard to fill up water but he said the town water was found contaminated last week and only bottle water worked. He gave me a 1.25 liter bottle and would accept nothing for it! Just out of town we parked in the shade of a tree on damp ground with breeze - I sat on my rainwear. The moisture added to the cooling and we rehydrated and ate a light lunch - boots off - could have napped.
Stepping a few feet away onto the road was like a blast furnace. We later heard the valley temperatures in the sun on the road reached 42C ! Pacing along the road we past 2 farms climbing toward a ridge where the trail split and a variant presented which was 5km shorter. A no brainer in these conditions we began a descent parallel to the ridge passing closely among cattle then a group of horses stationary seeking refuge from the heat In the trees. Finally the trail is a road following a water course - bone dry- which cuts through the ridge. The air here was cool nevertheless and we walked strongly up it till hitting a junction of road and trail - the main GR. Roadwalking upward in full sun the air smelled of melted tar as we moved quickly between shady spots which always seemed breezy and remarkably cool compared to sun a few feet away. Finally back into the woods it was great to walk off pavement but the air was still here and warm for very steep climbing toward the crest of the Larimont ridge. Here another variant presents which I wish we could have taken as it runs the crest to a high fortress and long views. As it was, this had become a "bit" of an ordeal. Exiting forest into pasture we rested in the breezy shade near cows then pushed on an gently up finally reaching a farm where the ridge descends. We started down in green lawn park like conditions. Day walkers here and several spurs lead to Pontralier our evening destination. But we descended the ridge as planned resting in cool shade yet again. Finally we walked by lower Fort Larimont / Mahler. Moving below it the castle Joux came into view on the opposite hill - back lit it didn't photograph well. The final rocky rough road switchback descent was painful with each step and we finished our water as we reached the bottom in the town Cluse et Mijoux .
Directly in front of us was a Absynthe distillery with the door invitingly open. So right off the trail we stepped into the cool building. Nice WC here too. A young man with excellent English offered a brief tour. So we had this great personal tour of the distillery with the original copper vats more then a century old and pre dating the 70 year ban on Absynthe. The process was explained along with the history of the drink. Then we were taken to a back room which had a fascinating display of their product and old posters. We were offered a sip of several liquors which we carefully tried given our patched state. The feet felt better immediately and they graciously called a taxi which took us to our hotel . The driver spoke no English but we enjoyed practicing our French and he was all for it - between Tam and I + the Absynthe it was a fun conversation! The hotel St Pierre was wonderful and we cleaned up and in the warm evening air had burgers at a street cafe. Toward the end of the meal a plump moustached semi intoxicated fellow sat next to us and began attempting to converse with us in general and hit on Tammy more in particular. A crazy end to an overwhelming day . We both slept deep and long.
Tuesday, July 24, 2012
7/23 la Rasse to Villees du Lac
A cool morning start in the canyon along the river with good walking out the door. In the shade of the trees I pushed back my hat to enjoy the air-it was gone!! - somewhere along here I lost it!
We past several shelters and signs of fishing.A large power plant is passed on the Swiss side with a huge cog railway almost vertically rises and shot up the hill as we watched.Past this the GR officially goes uphill however from my research I new this used to be a GR variant and the old GR stuck to the river. This we did and the old GR markers remain to be seen after passing earlier ones defaced. For two hours we walked in this narrow canyon with vertical white walls, rushing waters, on semi overgrown little used trail - essentially a highlight of the 2 days. If the upstream dam dumped water in some spots you'd be in trouble with no high ground to flee too. But you climb sharply from the canyon at last and work your way finally to the dam site. Past the dam I expected to reach the boats to Villers Le Lac quickly. But in fact it is an hour further along the lake. So we walked 30 minutes through the wind swaying pine forest and afternoon warmth before resting on rocks for chocolate snacks. Onwards the trial skirts along the lake on blasted out rock face with a railing. Tammy saw a large fish jump and this lake is known for monster trout. Two anglers were there trying their skills to get one. A steep climb comes to a viewpoint overlooking a waterfall the Sault de Doubs - probably the largest one I've seen so far in Europe. The long lake behind this cascade is natural result of blockage at the waterfall - not the previous man made dam. Fresh day tourists were thick here and the route is on sidewalk along restaurant /snack bars and trinket souveneer stands. And there was Nick in one sipping coffee! We had an ice cream while we visited then hustled further down to the wharf for the boats. Tickets are bought in the last shop just at the dock and the girl there laughed openly at my clumsy French. Always glad to amuse! The ride to Villers amongst the tourists was pretty and restful - wished it was longer. In town we immediately found a pizzeria for later and a grocery for supplies. I found a topoguide at the little "Presse" stand and cash machines were abundant. The hotel was very nice but our room faced the street and the traffic noise early the next morning broke my sleep. Tammy took a nap while I ran errands and shared a beer with Nick who arrived on foot - a easy road walk he said. We went to the pizzeria later which had excellent pizza and we ordered enough to save for lunch the next day.
We past several shelters and signs of fishing.A large power plant is passed on the Swiss side with a huge cog railway almost vertically rises and shot up the hill as we watched.Past this the GR officially goes uphill however from my research I new this used to be a GR variant and the old GR stuck to the river. This we did and the old GR markers remain to be seen after passing earlier ones defaced. For two hours we walked in this narrow canyon with vertical white walls, rushing waters, on semi overgrown little used trail - essentially a highlight of the 2 days. If the upstream dam dumped water in some spots you'd be in trouble with no high ground to flee too. But you climb sharply from the canyon at last and work your way finally to the dam site. Past the dam I expected to reach the boats to Villers Le Lac quickly. But in fact it is an hour further along the lake. So we walked 30 minutes through the wind swaying pine forest and afternoon warmth before resting on rocks for chocolate snacks. Onwards the trial skirts along the lake on blasted out rock face with a railing. Tammy saw a large fish jump and this lake is known for monster trout. Two anglers were there trying their skills to get one. A steep climb comes to a viewpoint overlooking a waterfall the Sault de Doubs - probably the largest one I've seen so far in Europe. The long lake behind this cascade is natural result of blockage at the waterfall - not the previous man made dam. Fresh day tourists were thick here and the route is on sidewalk along restaurant /snack bars and trinket souveneer stands. And there was Nick in one sipping coffee! We had an ice cream while we visited then hustled further down to the wharf for the boats. Tickets are bought in the last shop just at the dock and the girl there laughed openly at my clumsy French. Always glad to amuse! The ride to Villers amongst the tourists was pretty and restful - wished it was longer. In town we immediately found a pizzeria for later and a grocery for supplies. I found a topoguide at the little "Presse" stand and cash machines were abundant. The hotel was very nice but our room faced the street and the traffic noise early the next morning broke my sleep. Tammy took a nap while I ran errands and shared a beer with Nick who arrived on foot - a easy road walk he said. We went to the pizzeria later which had excellent pizza and we ordered enough to save for lunch the next day.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)