Frustrated by not being able to publish our photos and unable to resolve the issue I have decided to start a new blog which will allow me to share the amazing alps scenes! I will also post photos from earlier in July without the dialogs - it'll be called July xx photo addendum
I will begin with our Geneva departure and add photos. I will not post further at this blog!
Here is the link:
http://jimandtammytrekspart2.blogspot.fr/?m=1
Friday, May 10, 2013
Thursday, May 9, 2013
8/3 Bernex to Chapelle d Aboundance
I had been studying the weather closely as we approached the Alps and weather in these high places can trap you as a whiteout above tree-line can obscure the route. You can be 4 meters from a signpost and not see it! Add to that wind and lightning - well you are stuck potentially. The forecast for 2 days out from the hotel was superb but followed by 1-2 days of the type of nastiness I mentioned. What to do? Our planned schedule was to climb and spend the night in the Dent d Oche a nearby peak with a summit refuge near the lake and renowned for incredible lake views. However I noted on our approach the summit was perpetually in clouds so my enthusiasm for this diminished in light of the forecast. Furthermore about 2 days further in was a segment with 3 passes described as some of the most beautiful alps walking on the GR - which again seemed to be squarely in this bad weather period. Perhaps I overreacted but decided that we should hike directly to Chapelle d Aboundance in good weather. Then skip the following walking segment by taking a taxi the following day to the Col d Bassachaux and walking the high scenic segment in good weather again to reach the Chalet Mines d Or. This also bought us 2 extra days with which we could rest - (and during which I am writing this!
I knew it would be a tough day and so we left a bit early walking through the scenic resort area of Bernex. Cute chalet cabins and plentiful lodging here with some signs at 30€ per night. The road steepens out of town and seemed hard immediately paralleling a stream to the parking area of la Fetiuere where there is a restaurant at 1200meters 5km from the hotel. We were sweating despite the cool air. From here we began rocky trail up along the stream - then crossing it on a footbridge. Upwards finally clearing the tree-line we reached the Chalets d Oche which is a fromagerie as well ( cheese production and sales! )Tammy had felt the pain and commented "I don't know if I can do this". This was for her an an "Eye of the Tiger" moment,
Most of the day walkers here kept on up towards the Dent d Oche which was making peak a boo glimpses in the clouds. We kept on towards the Lac de la Casse where we joined the GR5 coming up from Thonon. We spoke to some Dutch day hikers and paused in the spectacular scenery. I phoned the Dent d Oche to tell them we weren't coming- no problem- and they passed along the message that our friend Lieven had stayed there!
We climbed on passing beautiful patches of alpine flowers with granite walls as a backdrop. The views just became better and crossing the pass at Portes d Oche - 1937m - I am at a loss for superlatives. We crossed into and descended while traversed a large green basin with a beautiful lake - distant green peaks. then back up to another pass Col d Pavis at 1944m. We stopped for lunch here and dug out massive sandwiches we'd bought from the hotel - the best I'd eaten all summer and I only finished half. While we ate a large herd of bouquetin ( ibex) sat nearby.
About 1pm we pushed on descending into more jaw dropping scenery now affording views again down through the steep cliffs to the lake and the cites along it. The GR descends but I called to Tammy as i noticed a side trail with the arrow Bise painted on rock. She came back up and we took this after referring to my phone app Iphigenie . This is a French based iPhone app which has all the IGN topo maps in quickly changeable detail - and locates you on it! Huge value and I could instantly see the value of this side route. So we traversed towards the Col d Bise seeing the GR descend 100m - meet the GR branch from St Gingolph far far below to join and then rise back to us. Looking back just blow the Col d Bise I paused to take in the superb view knowing that when we crossed the col we would not see the lake again. But when we went over the pass at 1915m we were again stunned by a vast green basin with rim peaks and rock walls the Chalet far below. The descent is steep, the dry footing sketchy at time - I can't imagine in the rain. And it is unrelenting - Tammy had her trekking poles out which she never does. The chalet was 513m below and our thighs were shaking when we arrived. I could see a place to stop for drinks and figured out too late that we needed to have gone a bit further to have found the Chalet. As it happened we followed the GR to sign indicating more then 2 hours to our destination. It was 3:30 a Tammy wanted to get it done. What I had somehow overlooked when I was deciding this route the day prior was that from the Chalet de Bise there is another pass to climb - 314 meters- to the Pas de la Bosse @ 1816 meters/ almost 6000 feet. I'm not sure of the distance it does this in but a mile seems right. Half way up we paused to breath about every 20 steps but inched along and finally reached the col only to face another long descent to the hotel. We spoke to another Dutch family and then in a trance began the descent. After 20 minutes I called a halt - out of gas I wolfed down the remainder of the sandwich chocolate etc. Tammy ate a bit but her stomach was cranky by now. So down we went past a farm building onto steep dirt road. The road approaches a large rock and tree - a GR marker on the rock. Tammy was ahead and followed the road as did I missing the turn onto trail - a mistake. The road met the trail far below but was longer and painfully steep and gravel slick. The trail had to have been better. Dazed we sat near the parking lot and cooled in a spring water trough. We followed the GR signs and the walkers sign with arrow pointing to Chapelle dA. This headed up a road not down as expected and I finally consulted the app and we backtracked thankfully not too far and saw the GR went down the grass to a stream, crossed a bridge and turned left heading downstream on comfortable trail. Eventually back onto tarmac we road walked downhill into our town o'd Chapelle d Aboundance and right to our upscale hotel Gentianettes @ 17:40. Trashed, we checked into the bunny room on the third floor mercifully reached by lift. There was a back deck with rushing stream sounds . Hydrating, showering and hand washing the clothes I rested. Tammy crashed- she mentioned dry heaves and had no interest in dinner. I encouraged hydration, gave her a sleeper and didn't see movement till morning. I went down to dine- there is fine French dining upstairs and rustic dining downstairs so down I went. Trashed, I couldn't remember the room number for the waitress and had to go back up to get it! I had a wonderful meal of local melted cheese, thin ham smoked at the hotel and picked vegetables . Very satisfying along with the blueberry ice cream drenched in blueberries . I slept very deep. Day totals 4450 ft up / 4480 ft down. Honestly the was one of the most if not the most stunningly beautiful days of mountain hiking I'd ever enjoyed. Our two and a half months of walking had conditioned us to make it possible - I couldn't have done it 2 months before hand. The exertion was epic but the next day we were good to go unlike the 200 mile STP one day ride last summer when I wasn't right for days. Bottom line, I think we can do this!
I knew it would be a tough day and so we left a bit early walking through the scenic resort area of Bernex. Cute chalet cabins and plentiful lodging here with some signs at 30€ per night. The road steepens out of town and seemed hard immediately paralleling a stream to the parking area of la Fetiuere where there is a restaurant at 1200meters 5km from the hotel. We were sweating despite the cool air. From here we began rocky trail up along the stream - then crossing it on a footbridge. Upwards finally clearing the tree-line we reached the Chalets d Oche which is a fromagerie as well ( cheese production and sales! )Tammy had felt the pain and commented "I don't know if I can do this". This was for her an an "Eye of the Tiger" moment,
Most of the day walkers here kept on up towards the Dent d Oche which was making peak a boo glimpses in the clouds. We kept on towards the Lac de la Casse where we joined the GR5 coming up from Thonon. We spoke to some Dutch day hikers and paused in the spectacular scenery. I phoned the Dent d Oche to tell them we weren't coming- no problem- and they passed along the message that our friend Lieven had stayed there!
We climbed on passing beautiful patches of alpine flowers with granite walls as a backdrop. The views just became better and crossing the pass at Portes d Oche - 1937m - I am at a loss for superlatives. We crossed into and descended while traversed a large green basin with a beautiful lake - distant green peaks. then back up to another pass Col d Pavis at 1944m. We stopped for lunch here and dug out massive sandwiches we'd bought from the hotel - the best I'd eaten all summer and I only finished half. While we ate a large herd of bouquetin ( ibex) sat nearby.
About 1pm we pushed on descending into more jaw dropping scenery now affording views again down through the steep cliffs to the lake and the cites along it. The GR descends but I called to Tammy as i noticed a side trail with the arrow Bise painted on rock. She came back up and we took this after referring to my phone app Iphigenie . This is a French based iPhone app which has all the IGN topo maps in quickly changeable detail - and locates you on it! Huge value and I could instantly see the value of this side route. So we traversed towards the Col d Bise seeing the GR descend 100m - meet the GR branch from St Gingolph far far below to join and then rise back to us. Looking back just blow the Col d Bise I paused to take in the superb view knowing that when we crossed the col we would not see the lake again. But when we went over the pass at 1915m we were again stunned by a vast green basin with rim peaks and rock walls the Chalet far below. The descent is steep, the dry footing sketchy at time - I can't imagine in the rain. And it is unrelenting - Tammy had her trekking poles out which she never does. The chalet was 513m below and our thighs were shaking when we arrived. I could see a place to stop for drinks and figured out too late that we needed to have gone a bit further to have found the Chalet. As it happened we followed the GR to sign indicating more then 2 hours to our destination. It was 3:30 a Tammy wanted to get it done. What I had somehow overlooked when I was deciding this route the day prior was that from the Chalet de Bise there is another pass to climb - 314 meters- to the Pas de la Bosse @ 1816 meters/ almost 6000 feet. I'm not sure of the distance it does this in but a mile seems right. Half way up we paused to breath about every 20 steps but inched along and finally reached the col only to face another long descent to the hotel. We spoke to another Dutch family and then in a trance began the descent. After 20 minutes I called a halt - out of gas I wolfed down the remainder of the sandwich chocolate etc. Tammy ate a bit but her stomach was cranky by now. So down we went past a farm building onto steep dirt road. The road approaches a large rock and tree - a GR marker on the rock. Tammy was ahead and followed the road as did I missing the turn onto trail - a mistake. The road met the trail far below but was longer and painfully steep and gravel slick. The trail had to have been better. Dazed we sat near the parking lot and cooled in a spring water trough. We followed the GR signs and the walkers sign with arrow pointing to Chapelle dA. This headed up a road not down as expected and I finally consulted the app and we backtracked thankfully not too far and saw the GR went down the grass to a stream, crossed a bridge and turned left heading downstream on comfortable trail. Eventually back onto tarmac we road walked downhill into our town o'd Chapelle d Aboundance and right to our upscale hotel Gentianettes @ 17:40. Trashed, we checked into the bunny room on the third floor mercifully reached by lift. There was a back deck with rushing stream sounds . Hydrating, showering and hand washing the clothes I rested. Tammy crashed- she mentioned dry heaves and had no interest in dinner. I encouraged hydration, gave her a sleeper and didn't see movement till morning. I went down to dine- there is fine French dining upstairs and rustic dining downstairs so down I went. Trashed, I couldn't remember the room number for the waitress and had to go back up to get it! I had a wonderful meal of local melted cheese, thin ham smoked at the hotel and picked vegetables . Very satisfying along with the blueberry ice cream drenched in blueberries . I slept very deep. Day totals 4450 ft up / 4480 ft down. Honestly the was one of the most if not the most stunningly beautiful days of mountain hiking I'd ever enjoyed. Our two and a half months of walking had conditioned us to make it possible - I couldn't have done it 2 months before hand. The exertion was epic but the next day we were good to go unlike the 200 mile STP one day ride last summer when I wasn't right for days. Bottom line, I think we can do this!
Friday, August 3, 2012
8/2 Geneva to Bernex
This was the day we began the final stage of our journey - crossing the Alps. We felt rather fit after walking for 2 and a half months, and we'd refined our pack weights to what we knew to be comfortable. Still the the towering shadows across the lake were intimidating as much as awesome. I had experienced guided hiking in the alps 3 times in the last 12 years and realized those experiences were tame in comparison to what lay ahead.
The GR5 reaches the lake at Nyon on the Swiss side and the continuation is by ferry across to France where there are two formal approaches. St Gingolf is described as a very steep difficult climb from the lake without much in the way of views. The other approach from Thonon- les-Bains is longer and and looks to take two days what the other approach does in one. We chose a third option which was described by David May in his detailed website which is to arrive at Evian and walk to the village of Bernex where lodging is plentiful and then climb to intersect the GR which crosses above it coming from Thonon.
So we packed up and took the later train to Lausanne where the boat runs frequently to Evian. The Swiss train was direct and was amazingly smooth. We decided to look around Lausanne and I'm glad we did. It's from lake level way up on a hill where the old city and cathedral are located. The rail station arrives in between. The walk up winds through cobblestone streets of the old city which is upscale shopping and cafes . The cathedral was interesting and scenic with views over the city rooftops. We wound back down to the station. There is a metro train which runs directly to the waterfront boats, but we elected to walk after figuring out that we had to walk beneath the rail station. There were no obvious signs for this but a street side elevator west end of the station building dropped us to a tunnel which led to the street. Using a street map from the station city info center we worked out the route paralleling the metro train. The metro honestly would have been easier but the walk did afford views of elegant old residential buildings. Finally at the waterfront the area was busy with tourists with lake boat connections to many places such as Montreux . We bought tickets and caught a boat within 5 minutes. The day was quite warm and the crossing in hazy sunshine made the ridges of the alps appear as shadowed lines down to the lake edge. We disembarked at Evian and immediately had lunch along with a liter of water. I had preloaded a route from the harbor to the hotel which worked fine! Evian sits at 376 meters while our hotel was at 993 meters elevation. The distance was a bit over 7 km. Looking more closely though- the route took us through Saint Paul en Chablais 4 km from Evian it was already at 876 meters. The temperature was 32C. For the US reader this averages to 660 ft per mile up in hot still air. In this shaded heat we staggered up until Saint Paul-en - Chablais where we found a running city fountain. There I emerged my head in the frigid water. The view of the lake and cities below and the mountains ahead was spectacular indeed. Our final 3km to the quality hotel was much less steep but along a very busy windy road without shoulder much. It felt a bit dangerous though less steep and a bit of breeze lessened the heat. Coming rocketing down amidst the cars was a bicyclist riding hands free preoccupied with texting.......
We reached the hotel Bois Joli which I mentioned was quality but honestly the key feature was the swimming pool the we rapidly were in. I just sat in the shallows for a hour then migrated to a chair and fell asleep briefly. dinner was excellent but simple - lamb chops with peas. We had some wine which increasingly is a mistake as it disturbs my sleep.
The GR5 reaches the lake at Nyon on the Swiss side and the continuation is by ferry across to France where there are two formal approaches. St Gingolf is described as a very steep difficult climb from the lake without much in the way of views. The other approach from Thonon- les-Bains is longer and and looks to take two days what the other approach does in one. We chose a third option which was described by David May in his detailed website which is to arrive at Evian and walk to the village of Bernex where lodging is plentiful and then climb to intersect the GR which crosses above it coming from Thonon.
So we packed up and took the later train to Lausanne where the boat runs frequently to Evian. The Swiss train was direct and was amazingly smooth. We decided to look around Lausanne and I'm glad we did. It's from lake level way up on a hill where the old city and cathedral are located. The rail station arrives in between. The walk up winds through cobblestone streets of the old city which is upscale shopping and cafes . The cathedral was interesting and scenic with views over the city rooftops. We wound back down to the station. There is a metro train which runs directly to the waterfront boats, but we elected to walk after figuring out that we had to walk beneath the rail station. There were no obvious signs for this but a street side elevator west end of the station building dropped us to a tunnel which led to the street. Using a street map from the station city info center we worked out the route paralleling the metro train. The metro honestly would have been easier but the walk did afford views of elegant old residential buildings. Finally at the waterfront the area was busy with tourists with lake boat connections to many places such as Montreux . We bought tickets and caught a boat within 5 minutes. The day was quite warm and the crossing in hazy sunshine made the ridges of the alps appear as shadowed lines down to the lake edge. We disembarked at Evian and immediately had lunch along with a liter of water. I had preloaded a route from the harbor to the hotel which worked fine! Evian sits at 376 meters while our hotel was at 993 meters elevation. The distance was a bit over 7 km. Looking more closely though- the route took us through Saint Paul en Chablais 4 km from Evian it was already at 876 meters. The temperature was 32C. For the US reader this averages to 660 ft per mile up in hot still air. In this shaded heat we staggered up until Saint Paul-en - Chablais where we found a running city fountain. There I emerged my head in the frigid water. The view of the lake and cities below and the mountains ahead was spectacular indeed. Our final 3km to the quality hotel was much less steep but along a very busy windy road without shoulder much. It felt a bit dangerous though less steep and a bit of breeze lessened the heat. Coming rocketing down amidst the cars was a bicyclist riding hands free preoccupied with texting.......
We reached the hotel Bois Joli which I mentioned was quality but honestly the key feature was the swimming pool the we rapidly were in. I just sat in the shallows for a hour then migrated to a chair and fell asleep briefly. dinner was excellent but simple - lamb chops with peas. We had some wine which increasingly is a mistake as it disturbs my sleep.
Thursday, August 2, 2012
7/31-8/1 Geneva Switzerland
I had planned a couple days in Geneva as id been there before and enjoyed it. We had city type errands to run as well - Tammy needed a new raincoat while wanted a new hat. Our box from home sent many thanks by my friend Tom was at the hotel with our fleece jackets and our mountain boots among other things. With the box that came to us, we planned to return it with our shoes unneeded clothes etc. We asked about a mountain shop and received directions to a department store which didn't have what we needed. We walked to the main shopping shopping street to came to a world sport shop where we found a quality rain shell. They told us about a mountain shop called Cactus- tram line 12 Armess exit. We went and I can highly recommend it - the staff quite helpful and some sale items well priced. But Geneva is no bargain and the shop is no less pricey. Still - a good find for us- everything done we had a small salad lunch with cold drinks and more sticker shock. We headed back in considerable heat for the rest part of our rest day. An evening stroll at the waterfront featured perfect evening light with Mt Blanc clearly seen. We went to an Indian restaurant near the hotel for a fine meal. The next day we planned to ship the box back and tour the town. Problems right away! Turns out Aug 1 is a national holiday and everything is closed- post office, CERN , the UN - all the stuff we wanted! Over breakfast I concocted a plan - take to team to France - Annemasse where it wasn't a holiday and post office is open. It worked and we trammed to the border - crossed past the border security with the large sealed box without so much as a glance - then bussed to the post office - 20 minutes later back on the bus and then the tram ,- line 12. Back in town the heat was building so we stopped at Starbucks - I guess we were a little homesick- it was comforting. Then to the train station where I wanted train tickets for the next day. Heading back I saw an open city info trailer. I asked again about CERN - I was indeed open today! despite what the hotel desk clerk had said. So we had a quick Thai lunch then jumped on the tram and made it to CERN by 15:20 - hardly enough time before 17:00 closing to do it justice- but still it was memorable and awe inspiring! We returned to town for a rest and ended up staying in and eating some munchies we'd packed. A big thunder storm early followed by heavy rain late. I regret not seeing the fireworks over the lake which we heard from our room.
Wednesday, August 1, 2012
7/30 Les Rousses to Nyon / Geneva
Our lodging was about 3 km southeast of where the GR leaves town and descends southwest around the fort to reach after ~5-6 km La Cure. Our hotel was only 1.8 km from the same place and I found it too much to stomach to walk the extra distance. So we set off down a peaceful country road surrounded by green fields and cattle in crisp morning air and beautiful morning light. Quickly into La Cure, the GR marking changes from white over red to Swiss yellow diamonds and sign posts all the way to Nyon. You find the route at the La Cure train station and follow the signs along highway to street then to path for a short while along the train tracks. A hiker was about 5 min ahead and we paced him. We cut through forest emerging at a farm building where a sign indicated a left turn. We finally figured out we had to cross the cattle wire and descend the pasture beside it - because the hiker ahead did the same thing. He disappeared over a low hill. When we crossed it he had vanished but there sat Nick in the middle of the trail finishing breakfast. So we walked together through fields along a seemingly endless old stone wall finally into wood then back to pastures with different cattle - milky white to brown. The huge thistles we'd seen growing over the last week were finally opening amidst the cows who gazed at us as we played with our cameras. Continually descending now we began to pass cute Swiss chalets with their perfect yards. We stopped in St Cergue for coffee / iced tea then headed on passing a restaurant terrace with our first view if Lac Leman (Geneva) still far below. But not for long - the road steeply switchbacks down from here while the GR cut the switches plunging downhill on old river rock road bed -rough on the feet. It was along here where our first view of Mt Blanc, ice white in the distance, popped out. My emotions soared - as I had a flash of reflection of our accomplishment. We had walked hundreds of miles over 2.5 months crossing difficult terrain in tough weather to reach this place. And having been to the area 3 times previously there was an elated sensation of arriving at the familiar - not home of course- but a place rich rich with memories of my daughters and friends. A place in the mind that home perhaps also abides. I was back!
And with this reflection we emerged from the woods and road walked to Nyon on the Lake. Looking back I spotted Lieven and so we all four walked together. The slopes tapered here and agriculture gripped the land, terraces of grapes and apples. As the land leveled we passed sunflower fields in different states of maturity their heads lifted to the hot sky while in adjacent fields the sight of mature corn husks triggered smells memories of summer barbecue. We entered the Nyon periphery which was newer, modern mixed with the old till the main part of town - passing through the gare under the tracks , the city was busy with shoppers. The sudden transition from walking GR and seeing no one to suddenly entering a large crowded area where humanity seems to huddle is a bit unnerving and is always an adjustment that feels awkward even uncomfortable. We didn't pause but pushed through town to a huge white 4 turret chateau that overlooks and dominates the harbor front buildings below. We spotted an elevator from here that seemed to go down so we took it ending up in the bottom of a parking garage which also happened to be at harbor level. We joked about painting GR markers to the elevator and through the garage. We walked with the mix of good smelling tourists to the wharf where we had about an hours wait. We had our first Swiss sticker shock here - 3.50 for a scoop of ice cream! We saw one of the old lake steam paddle boats come and go with we've alps in the background and far town lake the huge fountain o'd Geneva was visible. A beautiful afternoon by the water. Nick actually jumped in the lake to cool off. Lieven however couldn't cross the lake till the next day where he would continue on the GR - so he took leave of us to find lodging after we exchanged goodbyes - uncertain if we'd meet again.
The boat we rode to Geneva was newer and faster. Crowded too. We were on our feet most of the time in the pleasantly cool boat created breeze. After a short stop at Hermance we reached the interesting and beautiful harbor of Geneva in gorgeous late afternoon light- the towering fountain, festival tourists crowding the waterfront along with traffic made for sensory overload after the countryside of the last many weeks. We parted with Nick here after almost a month of traveling together more or less. He was heading home to Holland / work and other adventures. He plans cross the alps another year. We settled in to our hotel not far from the waterfront - Edelweiss. A tourist hotel it was very nice and comfortable with amenities. The restaurant however was a bit of a tourist trap with yodeling , accordion music etc where the Asian tourists came up to give a puff on the horn. We had a beef fondue with fries- and just water for 85$ - that's after the 15% off coupon! Better luck tomorrow!
And with this reflection we emerged from the woods and road walked to Nyon on the Lake. Looking back I spotted Lieven and so we all four walked together. The slopes tapered here and agriculture gripped the land, terraces of grapes and apples. As the land leveled we passed sunflower fields in different states of maturity their heads lifted to the hot sky while in adjacent fields the sight of mature corn husks triggered smells memories of summer barbecue. We entered the Nyon periphery which was newer, modern mixed with the old till the main part of town - passing through the gare under the tracks , the city was busy with shoppers. The sudden transition from walking GR and seeing no one to suddenly entering a large crowded area where humanity seems to huddle is a bit unnerving and is always an adjustment that feels awkward even uncomfortable. We didn't pause but pushed through town to a huge white 4 turret chateau that overlooks and dominates the harbor front buildings below. We spotted an elevator from here that seemed to go down so we took it ending up in the bottom of a parking garage which also happened to be at harbor level. We joked about painting GR markers to the elevator and through the garage. We walked with the mix of good smelling tourists to the wharf where we had about an hours wait. We had our first Swiss sticker shock here - 3.50 for a scoop of ice cream! We saw one of the old lake steam paddle boats come and go with we've alps in the background and far town lake the huge fountain o'd Geneva was visible. A beautiful afternoon by the water. Nick actually jumped in the lake to cool off. Lieven however couldn't cross the lake till the next day where he would continue on the GR - so he took leave of us to find lodging after we exchanged goodbyes - uncertain if we'd meet again.
The boat we rode to Geneva was newer and faster. Crowded too. We were on our feet most of the time in the pleasantly cool boat created breeze. After a short stop at Hermance we reached the interesting and beautiful harbor of Geneva in gorgeous late afternoon light- the towering fountain, festival tourists crowding the waterfront along with traffic made for sensory overload after the countryside of the last many weeks. We parted with Nick here after almost a month of traveling together more or less. He was heading home to Holland / work and other adventures. He plans cross the alps another year. We settled in to our hotel not far from the waterfront - Edelweiss. A tourist hotel it was very nice and comfortable with amenities. The restaurant however was a bit of a tourist trap with yodeling , accordion music etc where the Asian tourists came up to give a puff on the horn. We had a beef fondue with fries- and just water for 85$ - that's after the 15% off coupon! Better luck tomorrow!
Tuesday, July 31, 2012
7/29 Chapelle des Bois to Les Rousses
Heavy rain overnight and lingering when we awoke. But it thinned a bit so by the time we walked out after breakfast I could a least take off the rain pants. We walked into town and found lunch supplies at the grocery. Lieven caught up no sign of Nick so we headed out. The route crosses green fields straight at and then up the ridge above town. Switch-backing steeply up sometimes slick rock we were quickly into the fog. Along the ridge through the trees we we came to a viewpoint and magically a few cloud breaks allowed us to see the lakes, village and fields below. The route runs the ridge with border stones reminding us we were in Switzerland on this part. Finally the route turns off the ridge onto the maze of forest roads . We had lunch at a small shelter rustic but with a good stove even curtains. We can't help but reflect how these open structures would be vandalized ruthlessly in our own country. Sad.
The road / occasional trail was easy walking and undulated along without much to mention except for the variety of wild flowers. Tammy had a good time finding new ones and took many photos. We hope to get them posted someday if we could figure a way to link them to the blog- frustrating.
We reached the Rose Chalet where a sign said it was 12km to Les Rousses- no way! It was 3pm and we knew were we're closed then that!! GPS said 2 linear miles and maps similar. So on we went with a quicker pace and we began to encounter day hikers within an hour and signage indicating 2km then 1.5 then 1.7 then 2.1 -- okay we were getting closer! The descent to town was steep and muddy / slick . Aggravating on sore feet. Finally on tarmac, we walked into town where Lieven split off to find lodging. We went off not completely oriented when an older kind gentlemen approached and asked if we knew where we were.? He directed us back to town.
Where we ran back into Lieven who had a map which showed our hotel. We rested together having a cold drink when Nick materialized and we caught up on the day. There is an old fort in town hidden in the trees and Nick had photos. Interesting but not spectacular and we veered off route to our hotel about 3km. It was a nice Logis hotel and from our room we could see the mountain ridges before the lake and Geneva. We had a simple meal before turning in.
The road / occasional trail was easy walking and undulated along without much to mention except for the variety of wild flowers. Tammy had a good time finding new ones and took many photos. We hope to get them posted someday if we could figure a way to link them to the blog- frustrating.
We reached the Rose Chalet where a sign said it was 12km to Les Rousses- no way! It was 3pm and we knew were we're closed then that!! GPS said 2 linear miles and maps similar. So on we went with a quicker pace and we began to encounter day hikers within an hour and signage indicating 2km then 1.5 then 1.7 then 2.1 -- okay we were getting closer! The descent to town was steep and muddy / slick . Aggravating on sore feet. Finally on tarmac, we walked into town where Lieven split off to find lodging. We went off not completely oriented when an older kind gentlemen approached and asked if we knew where we were.? He directed us back to town.
Where we ran back into Lieven who had a map which showed our hotel. We rested together having a cold drink when Nick materialized and we caught up on the day. There is an old fort in town hidden in the trees and Nick had photos. Interesting but not spectacular and we veered off route to our hotel about 3km. It was a nice Logis hotel and from our room we could see the mountain ridges before the lake and Geneva. We had a simple meal before turning in.
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