Tuesday, July 17, 2012

7/15 Thann to Lac de Perches / Rouge Gazon

Publishing without pictures till we've figured it out.…

The weather forecast was poor and indeed we awoke to light showers. By by the time we'd finished breakfast, they'd stopped and there were tentative sun breaks. And that's good - hate walking out the door into rain. The route headed uphill a block from the hotel and gets right down to business generating altitude. Street quickly yields to typical forest road which climbs at a comfortable grade. Sprinkles came and went but finally the deluge came on. I was wearing my long pants and didn't put on the rain pants - a real mistake I will not repeat going forward. We transitioned from managed woods on road to Beech forest on trail. I love these beautiful lichen encrusted trees - the leaf litter was soft underfoot and quiets the forest. The leaves are huge compared to their South American cousins. The fall color I imagine to be superb. After reaching a pass and crossing the road the route turns steeper. The air chilled and the rain was full on. We broke out of the trees in high meadow, the cattle hiding from the wind amongst the trees. I saw a building ahead with a pick-nick table outside suggesting a farm auberge - we went straight to it - I was very cold. It was a ski shelter of the club Vosigenne and it was crowded with walkers sitting and eating at long tables. We hesitantly poked our head in the warm room. A friendly woman who appeared in charge approached and I asked about hot drinks. She took us downstairs where we could hang our wet gear. We took a seat amongst the others and there was an awkward silence initially. But in my semi coherent French explained who we were, what we were doing. Everyone wanted to talk to us then! Wine was brought out and well as local cheese. At thimble of a local liqueur made from milk warmed things up! They even applauded our accomplishment. I loved it !! It was that feeling of convivial acceptance in another land for which I will always remember. I passed out some blog cards as well. Warmed up, fed and happy - we left 2 hours later in much better weather. We crossed the meadows then descended steeply - a pattern that repeats as you work along the ridge crests one side or another. It was a good 3 hours to the col by the Lac de Perches which we descended steeply too. From here the route climbs sharply to the right ,well marked to the Logis Lodge of Rouge Gazon. It's steep for 30 minutes and then right out of the trees you arrive. A ski resort in the winter, this place was busy - we enjoyed a wonderful meal of roast pig and vegetables with Beaujolais wine. Meanwhile the wind howled and rain bucketed as elderly couples merrily danced to live a accordion with an accompanist. A very full day by any measure!

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