This was a day difficult due to its length 30 km may be more route dependent. There were variant route options to give potential bailout pathways but then distance would tack onto the next day which had its own issues already. On top of the distance was heat which was predicted to build thru the week.
We got up from our gluttonous sleep early ate and were booting out by 8:10. The sun was hot out the door and we dressed the occasion. We moved out quickly down hill then off into a field climbing a bit then descending on slick dewy trail ....then back to the road -- just stay on the road for this part! We road walked briskly but stopping now and then for pictures of cattle - their bells clanging. Cattle - our constant companions on the trip. We passed through the village of Grand Mont situated pastorally but surrounded by coniferous forests and the up thrust ridges of the Jura. Walking out of town we approached such a ridge entering forest where we came upon and passed the family of walkers we'd seen the day before - their kids sucking down water already. Hope they did ok. Reaching the ridge the route turns and parallels the face climbing its shoulder steeply before emerging into open pastures crossing a rock wall into Swiss. Nice walking in these big pastures although hot, and we climbed again into trees overlooking the cattle in the pasture below that we'd left behind. Basically we reached the ridge top and a farm where we then walked road perhaps a km before starting a long descent through trees into a canyon where a stream cooled the air.along here we looked down to see a note pinned to the ground from Nick saying he had taken a side variant to Montbenoit to see the abbey. Amazingly on the back of the paper was another message to us from a couple we'd met months ago in Begium - Sebastian and Suzzane who were also through hiking the route but camping. They hoped to meet up! Many questions presented - did they meet Nick and learn of us? How far ahead were they? I realized in retrospect I'd seen them from a distance back in Villers but didn't make the connection.
So on we went re-entering the heat at Les Allies where I figured we'd find food or at least water. But no eateries here! I asked a man in his yard to fill up water but he said the town water was found contaminated last week and only bottle water worked. He gave me a 1.25 liter bottle and would accept nothing for it! Just out of town we parked in the shade of a tree on damp ground with breeze - I sat on my rainwear. The moisture added to the cooling and we rehydrated and ate a light lunch - boots off - could have napped.
Stepping a few feet away onto the road was like a blast furnace. We later heard the valley temperatures in the sun on the road reached 42C ! Pacing along the road we past 2 farms climbing toward a ridge where the trail split and a variant presented which was 5km shorter. A no brainer in these conditions we began a descent parallel to the ridge passing closely among cattle then a group of horses stationary seeking refuge from the heat In the trees. Finally the trail is a road following a water course - bone dry- which cuts through the ridge. The air here was cool nevertheless and we walked strongly up it till hitting a junction of road and trail - the main GR. Roadwalking upward in full sun the air smelled of melted tar as we moved quickly between shady spots which always seemed breezy and remarkably cool compared to sun a few feet away. Finally back into the woods it was great to walk off pavement but the air was still here and warm for very steep climbing toward the crest of the Larimont ridge. Here another variant presents which I wish we could have taken as it runs the crest to a high fortress and long views. As it was, this had become a "bit" of an ordeal. Exiting forest into pasture we rested in the breezy shade near cows then pushed on an gently up finally reaching a farm where the ridge descends. We started down in green lawn park like conditions. Day walkers here and several spurs lead to Pontralier our evening destination. But we descended the ridge as planned resting in cool shade yet again. Finally we walked by lower Fort Larimont / Mahler. Moving below it the castle Joux came into view on the opposite hill - back lit it didn't photograph well. The final rocky rough road switchback descent was painful with each step and we finished our water as we reached the bottom in the town Cluse et Mijoux .
Directly in front of us was a Absynthe distillery with the door invitingly open. So right off the trail we stepped into the cool building. Nice WC here too. A young man with excellent English offered a brief tour. So we had this great personal tour of the distillery with the original copper vats more then a century old and pre dating the 70 year ban on Absynthe. The process was explained along with the history of the drink. Then we were taken to a back room which had a fascinating display of their product and old posters. We were offered a sip of several liquors which we carefully tried given our patched state. The feet felt better immediately and they graciously called a taxi which took us to our hotel . The driver spoke no English but we enjoyed practicing our French and he was all for it - between Tam and I + the Absynthe it was a fun conversation! The hotel St Pierre was wonderful and we cleaned up and in the warm evening air had burgers at a street cafe. Toward the end of the meal a plump moustached semi intoxicated fellow sat next to us and began attempting to converse with us in general and hit on Tammy more in particular. A crazy end to an overwhelming day . We both slept deep and long.
No comments:
Post a Comment