Sunday, June 10, 2012

6/8 Vianden to Diekirch

Beautiful blue skies with patchy cumulus greeted us and we were ready to walk. In fact we both reflected that after a rest day we were almost anxious to get going and  the 2 rest days such as we had in Maastricht / Aachen were too much! So we were out the door early and followed the river south out of town where the GR drops back to the road and rejoined it for the walk to Diekirch . The GR leaves the road via bike path rail trail and is pleasant through the woods then recrosses the road and after a hamlet moves uphill on country roads descends through another small hamlet and eventually climbs a hill to enter forest. We passed beautiful fields of early wheat and the wind blew pleasing waves across distant fields. Just before the forest we encountered another solo walker- Michel or Mike. He was from Luxembourg and was planning to walk up to the alps. He was traveling very light and yet camping. We walked through the woods a ways then he dropped down to a town for food while we walked the hill crest through beautiful woods and birdsong. The ground here was very disturbed with many large shallow pits which I later came to believe are old dug positions from the war. At the far end of the hill is stonework suggestive of a more permanent fort once.We ate our leftover pizza for lunch at a pick-nick table as we
descended the hill opening to sweeping views. We reached the river leaving the GR at Gilsdorf to walk into Diekirch and our hotel the Beau Sejour. This was an easy short day of - about 10 miles and we were in our room by 2pm. With reeking clothes, we set off to find a laundry but settled for a cleaner where we negotiated a deal to have our clothes done by 5:30. It cost 20€ and in my mind was worth it because they stunk, and it left the afternoon free. After more pizza,Tammy opted for a nap. I went to a museum which contained the remains of a Roman fresco found during construction in the city and displays of early man in the area. Before the Romans, Celtic people's lived in this area before them. The displays were in German but for 5€ it was all worth a look. Next I visited the National Military Museum located in an old brewery. Outside are tanks, big guns and a howitzer along with a unrepaired piece of wall with pockmarks from the battle here. Inside .... Defies easy description. A massive collection of American and German weapons and vehicles astounds to visitor. Many dioramas and mannequins in battle dress are very well done. The variety,quantity and thoroughness as really stunning. German field anesthetic gear and American field surgical instrument trays along with a presentation on medical aspects can be found as well. A couple hours for a quick visit is needed. The walls are plastered with b&w photos taken by both sides during the Battle of the Bulge. Uniforms of American officers have been donated at anniversary memorials. There are also rooms devoted to more modern conflicts and Luxembourg's role in them again with weapons and dioramas. In summary - WOW!
Back at the hotel I double checked our reservation and remembered this was the place I had elected to try the Gastronomic option - which meant a gourmet dinner was included. This would have been more useful to have recalled before we had downed a pizza at lunch. And so it was, that we sat down to a multi-course meal which stretched over 3 hours and  was barely consumable in volume but very very tasty indeed. Complimented by a Bordeaux wine the Appetizer was a salmon pate. This was followed by a dish of scampi au gratin. Following that was a melon sorbet with a touch of alcohol perhaps vodka? Next the main event was a turkey roast in some delicious gravy with mushrooms and vegetables . Then a cheese plate with 4 types and nuts. Finally a crepe dessert with fruit and whipped creme. Next was the barely remembered trip to our room and the collapse into bed to sleep this absurd amount of food off!!

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